Within the Tea community, there has always been a widely accepted and deeply ingrained criterion for judging the quality of ripened Pu'er tea: “A clear and bright infusion is considered superior; a dark and murky infusion is considered inferior.” After Steeping a batch of ripened tea, one typically holds up the shared cup to the light for a closer look. Seeing a bright and clear infusion, one might exclaim, “Good tea!” before drinking it with confidence. On the other hand, if the infusion appears dark and murky, it's often concluded that the tea was over-fermented or improperly stored, dampening the enthusiasm for tasting. This is indeed an effective method of identification. A clear infusion usually indicates a soft, smooth flavor, while a dark and murky infusion suggests astringency and a storage taste. It's not difficult to determine which is better, but judging solely by the color of the infusion can be somewhat simplistic.

Identification of Pu'er Ripened Tea

Step 1: Examine the Appearance

High-quality ripened Pu'er tea typically exhibits a reddish-brown color. The leaves are evenly sized, thick, and tender (it's important to note that some may mistake old leaves for thickness; when steeped, the thicker yet softer leaves indicate higher quality, whereas harder leaves suggest they are older). The leaves are usually tightly packed, and when smelled, they have a faint scent of dried longan, accompanied by aromas of Rose, camphor, jujube, and a unique aged fragrance (somewhat similar to the scent of wood).

According to international standards, Pu'er loose tea is typically graded based on tenderness. First, there is Grade Outer (average-quality terrace-grown Pu'er tea), followed by grades 10 through 1 and Special Grade, with higher grades indicating greater tenderness. Generally, the higher the tenderness, the better the quality. To judge the level of tenderness, we consider the following four aspects:

• Observe the number of buds: A high number of white-hairy buds indicates greater tenderness.
• Examine the tightness and thickness of the leaves: Tightly packed and thick leaves indicate greater tenderness.
• Check the luster and smoothness of the dry leaves: Smooth and glossy leaves indicate greater tenderness.
• Inspect the cleanliness of the dry leaves: Uniformity and few hard stems (if hard stems can be pulled out from the tea cake, it suggests average-quality Pu'er tea) and no white frost indicate greater tenderness.

Step 2: Observe the Infusion Color

As the saying goes, “Smell Longjing, admire the color of Pu'er.” Typically, 6-8 grams of Pu'er tea are placed in a pot and steeped with boiling water (note: the hotter the water, the better for ripened tea, as high temperatures help extract organic compounds from the leaves). The infused tea is then poured into a glass pitcher to observe its color. Good Pu'er tea will have a rich, red infusion that is clear and bright.

Scientifically speaking, the most crucial step in processing ripened Pu'er tea is fermentation. Good fermentation results in a rich flavor and a reddish-brown infusion. During fermentation, large amounts of theaflavins and thearubigins oxidize and polymerize to form theabrownins, which give the tea its distinctive color. Additionally, the formation of soluble sugars and water-soluble substances during fermentation contributes to its unique taste.

Step 3: Inspect the Leaves After Steeping

After steeping, examine the wet leaves (tea residue) for their thickness, tenderness, color, and uniformity. The methods for these observations were introduced earlier. If the leaves lack elasticity, they are likely old. If they are unevenly mixed, it could indicate excessive blending or problems with the fermentation process. Black or rotten-looking leaves, or leaves that do not fully unfurl, can indicate two possibilities: either the tea was made from low-quality tea scraps or old and broken leaves, or there was a problem with the production process.

Step 4: Taste the Infusion

We focus primarily on tasting the flavor of the Pu'er tea infusion. When tasting, we first pay attention to the sweetness and richness, followed by the thickness of the liquid (akin to the viscosity of rice porridge) and the aged aroma that lingers after swallowing the tea.

Many tea enthusiasts may not fully understand the various flavors. Here's a brief explanation:

The thickness of the liquid refers to the viscosity of the tea infusion, not being thin and watery. It should have a mouthfeel similar to rice porridge, with a rich aroma and flavor that is not bland or weak.

The aged aroma of the tea infusion is a distinctive mellow scent specific to ripened Pu'er tea. It's important to distinguish this from the musty smell of spoiled tea. The aged aroma is somewhat like the natural scent of old wood, pleasant to the nose. In contrast, a musty smell is a sign of spoilage and indicates failed fermentation. Such tea should not be consumed. Unfortunately, unscrupulous merchants sometimes mislabel the musty smell as an aged aroma, so tea enthusiasts should be cautious about this.