This is the hometown of Zhao Ling'er from “Chinese Paladin.”

Among the many ancient cities in Yunnan, this place seems to be a corner forgotten by time. It lacks the prosperity of Lijiang and the romance of Dali but has its unique rhythm of life.

Stepping into Weishan is like entering an ancient dream. Here, carriages move slowly, and time is tranquil. The best way to experience Weishan is by ordering a pot of “unlimited refills” tea to combat the “emptiness of time.”

Tea and firewood along the Ancient Tea Horse Road

The ancient city of Weishan and the Ancient Tea Horse Road intertwine with a deep and profound history. When the sound of hooves echoes on the ancient road and the aroma of tea permeates the ancient city, time seems to be pulled back to that prosperous era. This place was not only a key town on the Ancient Tea Horse Road but also the birthplace and former capital of the Nanzhao Kingdom.

The knowledge of “Nanzhao” comes from the xianxia drama “Chinese Paladin.” After visiting Dali and Weishan, it became clear that the “Nanzhao Kingdom,” where the female lead Zhao Ling'er resides, really existed. Its capital was originally in the ancient city of Weishan before moving to Longyutu Mountain, Dali Taihe Village, and Dali Ancient City.

The four large characters “Kui Xiong Liu Zhao” (Supreme over the Six Zhaos), inscribed on the archway of the ancient city's Gongchen Gate, refer to the origin of the Nanzhao Kingdom here. Many people say that the authentic local culture of Dali Prefecture can only be seen in Weishan.

Built in the 23rd year of the Ming Hongwu period, the ancient city of Weishan still retains the chessboard layout of when it was built more than 600 years ago, making it one of China's best-preserved ancient Ming-Qing architectural complexes.

The four city gates stand tall, and at the center is the landmark building Xinggong Tower. Within the city are 25 streets and 18 alleys scattered like stars, ancient yet elegant. Various forms of architecture are concentrated and coexist here, and there are well-preserved dwellings and diverse ethnic skills of the Bai, Yi, Hui, Han, and other ethnic groups.

From the Tang Dynasty to the Republic of China period, Weishan was always a gathering point for horse caravans traveling north and south. For thousands of years, countless caravans have been bustling on the ancient road, engaging in commodity circulation and trade. The combination of local traditional flavors and tastes preferred by travelers from the north and south has formed the diverse and rich characteristics of Weishan's culinary culture.

Traditional banquets include the “Nanzhao Banquet,” “Eight Bowls,” “Two-and-a-Half Bowls,” “Three Waters,” and more. Characteristic snacks are represented by “Baked Meat Rice Noodles,” “Crossing-the-River Rice Noodles,” “Rolling Bull,” “One-Thread Noodles,” “Sugar Fire-Baked Bread,” pickles, honeyed foods, and others.

In the old streets and alleys, every brick and tile bears the imprint of history. Antique shops, embroidery workshops, tie-dye stores, general stores, teahouses, inns, and other shops stand quietly like watchers in time, witnessing the changes of the ancient city. The leisurely beauty and rustic charm here do not need to be sought deliberately; they naturally flow through the city walls and pavilions, the main streets and alleys.

Compared to the hustle and bustle of the ancient city of Dali, this place is more like an undisturbed sanctuary. There are no tourist-oriented shops or generic souvenirs; only small shops that exist for the locals. Shop owners don't make great efforts to please tourists, emitting a unique charm that attracts people to stop and explore.

A Unique Taste “Squatted” in Teahouses

People in Yunnan love tea, and the people of Weishan have a habit of Drinking Tea. Tea is the soul of the people of Weishan and their medium for dialogue with the world.

There are about seven or eight small teahouses in the ancient city of Weishan, all run by locals. Licorice, locust flowers, locust fruits, scorched rice, and Green Tea are available. Choose one and add the morning and evening sunlight for just three yuan, with unlimited refills.

Most of those who come to drink tea are older locals. While sipping tea, they chat and play a few rounds of chess. Days spent in tea are unhurried, still that ancient city of Weishan that has walked out of more than 600 years of time, calm and peaceful.

When Wang Zengqi studied at Southwest Associated University, he also loved to soak in teahouses. He once wrote in his articles: “Students of Southwest Associated University did not idle away their time in teahouses; most of the time was used for reading… Soaking in teahouses could also bring one into contact with society, seeing the myriad lives of people and developing an interest in various kinds of people and lifestyles.”

Locals say they call going to teahouses to drink tea “squatting in teahouses,” with “squatting” generally meaning immersing oneself for a long time. The first few novels written by Wang Zengqi were “squatted” out in teahouses, quite vividly.