I've had tea countless times, but the most distinctive and enjoyable tea drinking experience was in Ziyuan. In late autumn, my classmate and I sat by the fireplace in a small shop in Ziyuan, watching the owner beat tea as we drank bowl after bowl, thoroughly enjoying ourselves.
In the past, when we went to have tea, it was in a private room with faint music playing in the background. The tea would be served in small, delicate cups, and we'd sip it gently with our pinkies up, smiling slightly. This time, however, upon hearing “beating tea,” there was a rugged charm to it. Moreover, we could observe the entire process from loose leaves to the finished product being served, which filled us with delight.
Sitting at a small table by the hearth, the proprietress brought us a dish of rice noodles, a dish of small sweet potatoes, two glutinous rice cakes with mugwort leaves, and several crispy pickled radishes before busying herself by the stove. Watching her skilled movements, I understood why this method of Drinking Tea is called “beating tea.”
The flames on the stove hissed, and above them sat a specially designed small iron pot, about the size of a large soup bowl. Its unique feature was a small tilted spout on the side, and a small wooden mallet that looked like the number 7, polished and shiny, reflecting the light – it must have been used for many years. There was also a bamboo strainer at the ready. We watched as the proprietress boiled water in the iron pot, then tossed in a handful of tea leaves, cooking them until they were soft. She then scooped out the tea leaves with the strainer, rinsed and soaked them under running water.
My classmate informed me that the tea leaves used for beating tea are local tea, unprocessed, ensuring an authentic and flavorful experience. Boiling the leaves makes them softer, allowing the tea flavor to more easily seep out during the beating process. After washing the tea leaves, the iron pot was heated once more, and the proprietress poured in chopped scallions, ginger slices, garlic cloves, peanuts, and Sichuan peppercorns along with the steeped tea leaves, mixing, kneading, and pounding them together in the pot. Holding the pot handle in one hand and the small wooden mallet in the other, she pounded continuously. The ginger slices and peanuts gradually crushed, and the tea leaves stuck to the bottom of the pot. A little salt was added, and the mixture was kneaded and pounded some more. A rich aroma wafted through the air, and I inhaled deeply, exclaiming, “How fragrant!” The proprietress grinned and said, “Almost done. Once you try our Ziyuan beaten tea, you'll surely want to have it again.”
As the tea leaves became thoroughly beaten, the proprietress poured a ladleful of clear water into the pot, creating a sizzling sound and a cloud of white steam. The fragrance spread, and the small pot bubbled with its contents. She stood up, placed small bowls in front of us, and lifted the iron pot to pour the tea into our bowls. It was then that I realized the purpose of the small tilted spout on the pot – it made pouring the tea much easier.
My classmate sprinkled chopped scallions and rice crackers into my bowl, smiling and saying, “Let you taste the authentic beaten tea. Go ahead, see if you can get used to it.” Looking into my bowl, the tea was a golden hue, clear and bright, with green scallions and white rice crackers adding color. The inviting appearance and the aroma compelled me to take a large spoonful. I stuck out my tongue, saying, “Smooth texture, fragrant with a hint of bitterness, a Sweetness lingering afterward. Truly unforgettable.” My classmate laughed, “That's right. You don't know the rhyme for drinking beaten tea: ‘The first Cup is bitter, the second cup is astringent (in the local dialect), the third and fourth cups are good beaten tea.' This reminds you that beaten tea starts off bitter and then becomes sweet, so you need to savor it slowly and appreciate its full flavor. You shouldn't gulp it down or give up too quickly.”
The session of drinking beaten tea evoked a mix of flavors. In late autumn, in this small shop, bowl after bowl of beaten tea was served, and memories resurfaced. My classmate remarked, “This shop's beaten tea has a very special taste, a blend of spiciness and bitterness, with a hint of fragrance. See, the ingredients for beaten tea are all common rural produce, not greasy and beneficial for lowering blood Sugar. Actually, drinking beaten tea isn't just about health; what's more important is that you can add whatever flavors you like. Perhaps that's why I enjoy drinking beaten tea.”
The condiments for beaten tea can be added according to personal preference, much like how the flavors of life can be customized. Savoring the sour, sweet, bitter, and spicy elements of beaten tea mirrors the journey of life. Drinking tea is like experiencing life itself!
Originally published in Puer magazine
February 2025 issue
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