Evaluating Liubao Tea correctly is actually not a simple matter!
While we can use a general standard, identifying quality through aroma and taste, different vintages of Liubao tea still have some differences in evaluation criteria.
In subsequent articles, I will discuss the evaluation methods for new, mid-aged, and aged Liubao teas separately. Today, let's start with new tea.
If new tea exhibits these characteristics, is it normal?
Newly produced tea has a short maturation time (about 2-3 years), and since it is in the early stages of transformation, its sensory characteristics often differ from those of mid-aged and aged teas.
For example, the fermentation aroma (heap smell) of new tea may be relatively noticeable, and there may also be cases of greenish astringency, thin broth, and low aroma. However, these do not necessarily indicate poor quality.
This is because the core of Liubao Tea processing lies in fermentation, during which such natural aromas are inevitably produced, known as heap smell. Furthermore, after fermentation, the tea is steamed and pressed into baskets, increasing its moisture content, which can easily result in a thin broth and low aroma in the early stages.
All of these are manifestations of Liubao tea in its initial state of maturation, but they do not entirely represent its quality. Generally, if stored properly, after about three years of aging, these characteristics can be greatly reduced, then revealing its inherent quality features.
Therefore, when evaluating new tea, sometimes we need to temporarily downplay our judgment of its current taste, focusing instead on identifying its “transformation potential.”
The Key Indicators for Identifying Transformation Potential in Liubao Tea
What is transformation potential? I believe it can be summarized in one word: “Liveliness!”
Liveliness means vitality, a sense of life that allows one to feel the life of the tea leaves in the broth. This feeling should permeate the entire maturation process of Liubao tea.
Even in the early stages of maturation, we should be able to feel: brightness in the broth rather than dullness; the taste may be slightly thin, but it must give a sense of openness, aftertaste, and lingering flavor, the longer the better; the leaves at the bottom should be moist and supple, not dark and hard; drinking the tea should feel smooth in the body, not stagnant or rejected.
These manifestations of liveliness all stem from two fundamental points: good raw materials and good processing techniques.
Good raw materials ensure sufficient internal substances to withstand the rigors of processing techniques. Good processing techniques allow the components of the tea leaves to transform into pleasant tastes and aromas that benefit the body.
So, whenever I evaluate new tea, for those that have been aged for a short period but already have sweet, mellow, and smooth broth, I focus on assessing their liveliness, such as examining the leaves at the bottom. If the leaves at the bottom appear dark and hard, I generally consider that they have overdrawn their future potential. Although the short-term taste may be pleasant, achieving an increasingly fragrant character over time is likely more challenging.
For new tea, grasping the liveliness of the leaves is sometimes more important than experiencing the current taste!
The Correct Method for Evaluating New Tea: Balancing Taste and Liveliness
We have an old saying in China: “A person who has been away for three days should be regarded with new eyes.”
I remember a tea enthusiast once told me that he drank a newly produced tea over ten years ago. It had a slight wateriness, greenish astringency, a thin broth, and a low aroma, so he overlooked it. Unexpectedly, so many years later, this tea has transformed into an excellent taste and its price has increased by several times, becoming a sought-after treasure among collectors.
I emphasized the importance of liveliness above, not suggesting it is the only criterion for judging the quality of new tea. Rather, I want to suggest that when evaluating new tea, use dynamic thinking, especially in the early stages of maturation, when it is not yet possible to fully discern the quality.
Some new teas may not captivate you at first glance, but if they have guaranteed liveliness, we might as well give them another year or so. With a bit of patience, they may surprise you with a fresh perspective!
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