Those interested in geography will notice that the 30th parallel north is a remarkable line of latitude. Not only does it cross the territories of the four ancient civilizations, but it also traverses numerous deserts. However, an exception occurs in China, where this latitude passes through the fertile and warm subtropical region along the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River, which has become one of China's primary tea-producing areas. Sangzhi County in Hunan Province is located precisely on the 29.4-degree north latitude, the golden belt for tea cultivation.
“There's a place where White Tea perfumes the air, and its people are warm and kind,” a new rendition of the folk song “My Sangzhi” by Li Hongyan, a representative inheritor of the folk songs of Sangzhi, has brought Sangzhi White Tea to the attention of the nation through her voice.
In recent years, Sangzhi White Tea has risen to prominence, becoming a significant part of the “Colorful Hunan Tea,” and has been honored with awards such as “Ten Innovative Products of the Tea Industry Worth Hundreds of Billions in Hunan,” “Ten Key Counties for Integration of Tea Tourism in Hunan,” and “Demonstration County for Chinese White Tea Industry Development.” How did Sangzhi tea transform from obscurity to fame? What confidence does Sangzhi County have to propose building a tea industry worth billions?
The Past and Present of Sangzhi White Tea
Sangzhi is situated at the border of Hunan and Hubei provinces. It is not only the source of the Lishui River, one of the four major rivers in Hunan, but also the main habitat of the national treasure, the Chinese giant salamander. The county contains the National Nature Reserve of Dadongshan, known as the “Gene Bank of Central China's Flora and Fauna.” Due to its mountainous terrain, dense river network, and uneven landscape, Sangzhi is often described as having “nine parts mountains, half water, and half fields,” making agriculture challenging. However, this topography is ideal for tea cultivation. With its pleasant climate, over 280 days of fog each year, an average annual rainfall of 1,415 millimeters, a forest coverage rate of 64.79%, and an air ion content of up to 100,000 per cubic centimeter, Sangzhi possesses all the favorable conditions for growing tea.
The history of tea cultivation in Sangzhi can be traced back to the Yuan Dynasty, approximately 700 years ago. One well-documented historical fact is the production of “Sanhe Garden” tea in Xilian Town, Sangzhi County, which was presented to the imperial court in the second year of the Yongle period (1404 AD). “Sanhe Garden” tea is named after three cranes that were said to linger on the local tea trees, unwilling to leave. This tea is characterized by its emerald green color, sweet and refreshing taste, and rich aroma, making it a premium product that remains fresh even when left for long periods.
Tang Huaiting, the head of Zhangjiajie Xilian Tea Co., Ltd., speaks knowledgeably about tea. In the 1980s, he learned tea processing from his father, Tang Xingci, starting at the Village-run Yujing Tea Factory. In 2006, he established Xilian Tea Co., Ltd., to produce tea himself. Tang Huaiting explained that when he and his father worked at the village tea factory, they mainly produced white and black teas, which were sold domestically and exported through supply and trade departments, with equal sales volumes. After founding his own company, he successfully developed brands such as “Xilian No.1,” “Xilian Red,” and “Xilian Cloud Mist,” with current sales exceeding ten million yuan. He also shared a piece of tea knowledge: white tea is the most primitive form of tea processing, involving simple drying after picking, which is called “loose white tea.” Processes like pan-firing, rolling, drying, and fermentation appeared later with the development of human technology and are widely used in the production of green, oolong, black, and dark teas.
From the perspective of the history of tea production in Sangzhi, there were techniques for producing green, white, and black teas. For example, the tribute tea “Sanhe Garden” was a typical black tea. During the planned economy era, almost every household in tea-producing towns in Sangzhi, including Furong Bridge and Mahhekou, which are predominantly inhabited by the Bai ethnic group, made white tea to fulfill their supply quotas.
By 2012, as tea became a leading industry for poverty alleviation, Sangzhi County rapidly increased its high-quality tea plantation area by 50,000 mu. By 2016, production had surged, leading to a surplus of products. To bring Sangzhi tea out of the county and into the tourism market of Zhangjiajie, and subsequently to the rest of the country, it was included in the work plans of the Sangzhi County Party Committee and government. Wu Xiaodong, president of the Sangzhi County Tea Association, told reporters, “After analyzing the tea market in Hunan and across the country, and considering the county's conditions, we focused our efforts on building the brand of Sangzhi White Tea.”
Those familiar with tea production know that Chinese teas are classified into six categories based on color and processing methods: Green Tea, yellow tea, white tea, Oolong Tea, black tea, and dark tea. Green tea boasts many famous varieties, such as West Lake Longjing, Dongting Biluochun, Emei Zhuqueqing, and Guzhang Maojian, resulting in fierce competition. Similarly, the black tea market features renowned brands like Qimen Black Tea, Yunnan Dianhong, and Zhengshan Xiaozhong from Fujian. Other types of tea, like yellow, oolong, and dark tea, also have long-established brands. For Sangzhi tea to stand out, it would face intense competition, possibly failing before achieving success. Peng Yong, deputy director of the Sangzhi County Department of Agriculture and Rural Affairs in charge of tea production, said, “Comparatively speaking, while Fuding White Tea in Fujian is well-known, other origins of white tea are relatively less recognized, presenting a unique opportunity.”
Additionally, Sangzhi has a unique county characteristic – it is the second-largest Bai ethnic group settlement in the country, with a population exceeding 100,000. The Bai people migrated to Sangzhi from Yunnan during the late Song Dynasty, and Yunnan is the birthplace of Chinese tea. The Bai ancestors brought tea seeds from Yunnan to Sangzhi, promoting the prosperity of the tea industry. Based on the identification of many existing ancient tea trees in Sangzhi County, most are around 700 years old, which coincides with the time the Bai people migrated to Sangzhi. The Bai people introduced tea-making techniques like the “Three Courses of Bai Tea” to Sangzhi, enriching the tea-making skills of the region. Naming the tea “Sangzhi White Tea” and developing it as a public brand of the county has a deep cultural foundation.
A Decade of Effort Transforms Sangzhi White Tea
Having identified the breakthrough point, Sangzhi County began to act boldly.
First, experts from the Hunan Provincial Tea Research Institute were invited to provide assistance in Sangzhi. In the spring of 2013, experts from the Hunan Tea Research Institute came to Sangzhi to help several tea companies produce white tea. However, due to lack of recognition, the sales of white tea products were challenging. In 2016, the Sangzhi County government held the first special promotion event for “Sangzhi White Tea” in Zhangjiajie City, led by Xilian Tea Co., Ltd., which started a journey to build the public brand of “Sangzhi White Tea.” They addressed internal competition, united forces, and steadily improved white tea sales. Nevertheless, the scattered and small-scale tea production situation in Sangzhi County lacked a grand strategic vision, which was detrimental to the forging of the Sangzhi White Tea brand. “White tea belongs to the micro-fermentation process and needs to be stored for two years before being sold