Tea Becomes Vast Through Inclusiveness

Tea has always been a bridge for people to connect with nature. Tea is never isolated but part of a complex microbiological system. Each individual, like the tea leaves themselves, carries a microbial “aura” that interacts silently during various tea-related activities, making the tea table conversation a boundary-less fusion.

As a natural quality that brings people closer to nature, different types of tea carry the characteristics of the mountains and waters where they grow, as well as the local culture and customs. As the saying goes, “an empty mountain after the cup is drained,” it evokes thoughts of wind and moon. People love a cup of tea and also become close to the land and its people.

Puer tea is full of inclusiveness due to its geographic features and regional folklore, blending with local living habits and dietary customs and even becoming part of the ethnic character of the local communities.

The unique Naxi drinking method, “Aji Le Roasted Tea,” involves pouring boiled tea into a teacup containing burning liquor. This process of fighting, interacting, and blending experiences three stages, resulting in a rich and fragrant tea. This wild-tasting tea can be enjoyed with roasted tofu and quail eggs around a fire pit while still hot.

This method of roasting tea has a history of at least 1,600 years and is the most traditional way of drinking Puer tea in Yunnan. It is an essential part of life for the ethnic minorities living in the high mountains and valleys of Yunnan.

This is a typical example of how tea-drinking customs are influenced by local climate. Due to the cold and dry climate in Lijiang and the lack of vegetables, roasted tea can help dispel dampness and was often prepared as a medicinal beverage by ancient border residents. However, since tea alone was not strong enough, the custom of adding liquor to tea was born.

The Naxi people have a unique way of Drinking Tea that cannot simply be considered coarse. They fully utilize tea's inclusive nature, mixing in flour, rice, sesame seeds, and other miscellaneous foods to create a traditional Naxi tea soup. Drinking tea is less ritualistic than consuming liquor, which is inherently popular among the people due to its accessible nature. The widespread presence of alcohol culture in folk society far exceeds that of tea. Therefore, the tradition of adding liquor to tea in the Naxi community is worth promoting. Using liquor as a medium can expand the circle of tea enthusiasts, wouldn't this be a delightful development?

The geography, climate, and local customs of Yunnan have shaped the diverse flavors of Puer tea across its many mountains. The aesthetic tastes formed by historical traditions and numerous Puer tea enthusiasts contribute to the unique memories of Puer tea's aged flavor, throat resonance, and returning sweetness – encompassing taste, smell, and tactile sensations.

From the perspective of modern microbiology, the soil, climate, water, and local culture encountered by Puer tea interact closely with microorganisms, mutually supporting each other, demonstrating this commonality.

When we savor Puer tea, we are not only tasting the aged flavor bestowed by time, but also uncovering the myriad forms of life preserved within the flow of time. There are Puer teas that have been preserved for over a hundred years, serving as benchmarks for such taste memories – something unique to Puer tea compared to other tea types.

This article is excerpted from

“Living Culture: Endless Tales of Puer”

Author | San Hu
Photography | Fu Kai Cheng, Zhao Ting, Wei Kailun, Zhu Li
Originally published in “Pu'er” Magazine, February 2025 issue