Chinese Tea has undergone various transformations throughout its long history, symbolizing the brilliance of our culture.
Throughout different eras, ancient Chinese people underwent numerous changes in their understanding of Tea, its consumption, and its functional development.
In terms of drinking tea, the ancients invented a variety of brewing methods, one of which is the ancient yet novel method of brewing tea.
However, there are differences between brewing and infusing tea, both in terms of historical origin and specific steps involved.
I. In Ancient Times, the Distinction Between Brewing and Infusing Tea
Brewing tea may be unfamiliar to many young tea enthusiasts, sounding quite novel.
However, according to historical records, the practice of brewing tea had its origins during the Wei, Jin, and Southern and Northern Dynasties. At this time, tea was sometimes brewed on its own but more often combined with ingredients such as green onions, ginger, and orange peels, known as “Ming drink.” Occasionally, it was also brewed with porridge or vegetables, referred to as “Ming porridge” or “Ming vegetable.”
After undergoing changes, the method of brewing tea became prevalent during the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
The “Tea Sage” Lu Yu, drawing from the tea-drinking practices of his predecessors and through personal experimentation, proposed a theory of brewing tea. After practical application, the custom of brewing tea became widespread in the Tang Dynasty, ushering in a new era of tea drinking and setting the stage for the refinement of tea consumption.
Tang Dynasty people pursued extravagance and refinement, and this extended to brewing tea as well.
In the Tang Dynasty, there were already advanced techniques for making tea cakes. Before brewing tea, Tang Dynasty people would first roast the tea cakes over a fire for a short while to release their aroma.
Then, after allowing the roasted tea cakes to cool, they would grind them into a fine powder using a mortar or pestle and sift the resulting powder to ensure it met the required standards. The acceptable tea powder would then be stored in a tea box for later use.
Indeed, the matcha powder and milk tea powder we can buy today are remnants of what the ancients had already mastered.
Moreover, the Tang Dynasty people also adhered to the principle of “three boils” when brewing tea.
After grinding the tea into a fine powder, the ancients would prepare a wind stove and add an appropriate amount of water to the teapot. The best water came from mountain springs, clear and pure, ideal for brewing tea. When the water reached its first boil, they would add an appropriate amount of salt based on the volume of water, enhancing the flavor and reducing bitterness.
At the second boil, a ladle of water would be scooped out and set aside in a “cooked pot,” and an appropriate amount of tea powder would be added to the teapot.
At the third boil, the reserved water would be poured back into the teapot to stop the boiling and allow the tea to develop fully. The tea would then be ready. All that was needed was to prepare tea bowls and ladle the brewed tea into them.
The Tang Dynasty truly lived up to its reputation as a golden age, achieving innovation and refinement even in the art of brewing tea. The brewing method that originated in the Tang Dynasty is mentioned in Lu Yu's Classic of Tea and in subsequent tea literature.
The method of infusing loose-leaf tea emerged relatively late, originating in the mid-Ming Dynasty. Due to Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang's dislike of extravagance and complexity, the production of tea cakes was abolished.
Thus, after the adoption of loose-leaf tea as tribute tea, the way Ming Dynasty people drank tea underwent significant changes, simplifying the process.
The method of infusing loose tea gradually spread among the common people and has since remained the primary method of tea consumption in China.
As Wen Zhenheng wrote in The Record of Superfluous Things: “Extremely simple and convenient, the natural essence is fully present, truly capturing the true flavor of tea.”
Tea utensils were also significantly simplified, with Teapots becoming the most important tea utensil during the Ming Dynasty. By the end of the Ming Dynasty, small teapots became popular to retain the aroma. Thus, the method of infusing loose tea was also known as the teapot infusion method.
Tea utensils were simplified, and there was no longer a principle of “three boils” when infusing tea. Zhang Yuan's Tea Record documents this method: “When the water is fully boiled, remove it from the heat. First, pour a little into the teapot to dispel any chill and then pour it out. Then add the tea. The amount of tea should be adjusted appropriately; too much will result in a bitter taste and a lost aroma, while too little will yield a pale color and weak flavor. After two infusions, rinse the teapot with cold water to keep it clean and cool.”
In summary, the method involves placing loose tea in a teapot and pouring hot water over it, known as the teapot infusion method.
The most critical step in the teapot infusion method is controlling the heat, a point also recorded by Zhang Yuan in Tea Record: “The key to brewing tea lies in controlling the heat… If the heat is too gentle, the water becomes soft, and the tea is dominated by the water; if the heat is too fierce, the fire becomes overpowering, and the tea is controlled by the water. Neither achieves balance, which is not the essence of tea brewing.”
This means that overly high or low heat can cause deviations in water temperature, ultimately affecting the taste of the tea.
II. In Modern Times, the Distinction Between Brewing and Infusing Tea
In modern times, the differences between brewing and infusing tea are not very significant.
When brewing tea, you need to prepare a ceramic teapot suitable for heating and a small stove. The tea can be continuously brewed and poured into cups for drinking.
Infusing tea involves pouring boiling water into a teapot and then into cups. Once the teapot is empty, more hot water can be added.
With the change in modern lifestyles and the pace of life, the common method of infusing tea has become even simpler. Many young tea enthusiasts now simply prepare a teacup, add tea leaves, and infuse it with hot water for drinking.
III. Which Teas Are More Suitable for Brewing?
Although brewing tea can bring out the essence of the tea, resulting in a smoother, gentler, and richer infusion, not all types of tea are suitable for brewing.
It is understood that unfermented teas, lightly fermented teas (with fermentation levels of 10-20%), and teas with fresh tender buds are not only unsuitable for brewing but may also destroy some beneficial substances within the tea.
Black Tea, as a fermented tea, is a type of tea that can be brewed.
Black tea undergoes fermentation at levels of 80-90% and can be infused or brewed, enjoyed plain or mixed. If mixed, it pairs well with milk or dried flowers, improving the taste. When enjoyed plain, attention should be paid to the brewing time; if left too long, the taste can become overly concentrated and slightly bitter.
Oolong tea, a partially fermented tea, is another type that can be infused or brewed, though aged oolong is more suitable for brewing.
Brewing oolong tea in a clay vessel can absorb the excessive heat from the tea. The resulting infusion is rich and intense, perfect for those who prefer