This is the very center of the land, with relics and sites of a brilliant civilization, world-renowned Shaolin Kung Fu, the hearty Henan noodles and spicy soup…

Yes, this is Henan – the treasure province on the rich soil of Central China.

The statues of Emperors Yan and Huang back against Mangshan Mountain, facing the Yellow River, watching the passage of time. Photography by Jiao Xiaoxiang.

The people of Central China are moderate and sincere, with a broad-mindedness that can dissolve all kinds of stereotypes. They are not good at promoting themselves, but the images embraced by this low-key land are far broader than one might imagine. Even the sweet taste from the south – Tea – has been skillfully integrated into the lifeblood of Central China.

You say Henan doesn't understand tea? You're greatly mistaken. Luoyang Tang tea, Daguansong tea, Shaolin Chan tea – they reflect the glorious history of different periods. The well-known Xinyang Maojian enjoys a century-old reputation.

Fresh leaves used to make Xinyang Maojian. Image courtesy of Tooching Creative.

This cup of Henan tea hides too many unknown wonders!

A Thousand Years Ago, Henan Became the Center of Chinese Tea During the Song Dynasty

Throughout the long course of history, the Central Plain has single-handedly nurtured numerous ancient capitals, such as Kaifeng, which was the capital of several dynasties and a shining pearl on the Central Henan Plain. Deep beneath this ancient city, between 3 meters and 12 meters down, lie six layers of ancient cities, as the old saying goes: “Kaifeng City, layered city upon city, with several cities buried underground.”

The most prosperous period in Kaifeng's history must be the Northern Song Dynasty. A painting of the Qingming Festival provides a glimpse into the bustling prosperity of Bianjing (also known as Dongjing or Bianliang).

The prosperity of Bianjing is hidden in the Qingming Festival painting.

In the bustling streets of Bianjing, the name of tea adorned every corner. Cai Jiao, a Song scholar, wrote in “Record of Iron Enclosure Mountain,” “The appreciation of tea began in the Tang Dynasty and reached its peak in our dynasty.” Thanks to the promotion and advocacy of tea in previous dynasties, growing, picking, and processing tea became popular trends. Ordinary people could more easily obtain fresh tea. By the Northern Song Dynasty, tea had become a common part of daily enjoyment, a casual pastime after meals.

In the TV series “Dream of Glory,” three women build a successful teahouse business in Dongjing, a common narrative during the Northern Song Dynasty. Back then, Bianjing was bustling with teahouses. Patrons would roam the markets, either sharing tea with neighbors to foster relationships or heading out to teahouses for relaxation.

The Qingming Festival Garden in Kaifeng. Replicating the glory of the Northern Song Dynasty. Photography by Jiao Xiaoxiang.

Teahouses like Huachafei, Shuichafei, and Cuju Teahouses were open until late at night, catering to the hearts of wanderers. There were also loyal patrons who preferred quiet places where they could enjoy tea, compete in tea-tasting, and exchange ideas with like-minded individuals.

So-called tea competition in the Song Dynasty wasn't just about the quality of the tea, but also about the artistry of making it. The preparation of tea in the Song Dynasty achieved a pinnacle in tea art, involving procedures such as grinding tea, sifting tea (using a fine sieve), waiting for the water to boil, warming the tea cups, and pouring water into the cups to complete a cup of sweet and fresh tea. The meticulous steps demonstrate the refinement of Song tea connoisseurs.

Illustration by Dongzi.

This refinement attracted not only ordinary people but also became a favorite of emperors in the imperial palace. Emperor Taizu placed special importance on royal tea drinking when founding the Song Dynasty. By the reign of Emperor Huizong, he loved tea so much that he wrote “Daguan Tea Treatise” to document the art of Song tea. Many high-ranking officials were also experts in this field, writing relevant works, such as Ding Wei's “Northern Garden Tea Record,” Cai Xiang's “Tea Record,” Shen Kuo's “Tea Law of Our Dynasty,” and Song Zian's “Trial Tea Record of Dongxi.”

The culture of tea-making in the Song Dynasty had a profound impact on later generations. Image courtesy of Visual China.

Tea witnessed the prosperity of an era in the imperial city of Kaifeng, and the connotations of Tea culture were continuously expanded during this time.

The “Southern Jiangnan of the North” in Central Henan Produced Xinyang Maojian

Due to this history, the people of Central China have loved drinking tea since ancient times and have never lacked access to good tea. Today, the Xinyang Maojian in the cups of older tea enthusiasts boasts a tender green color, high fragrance, and rich flavor, and is the most precious of all.

Xinyang Maojian, the pride of Henan tea enthusiasts. Image courtesy of Tooching Creative.

The quality of Xinyang tea is high, and its history is extremely long. This excellent tea, like the land that nurtures it, has undergone a thousand years of testing. During the Tang and Song dynasties, Xinyang belonged to the Huainan region, and Xinyang tea was already the top choice in the area. Su Dongpo, a tea lover, once said, “Among Huainan teas, Xinyang is the best.”

What made Xinyang tea stand out among fierce competitors was the magical nature of the city itself. The locals of Xinyang are undoubtedly a minority in the Central Plains. Although they belong to Henan and are considered “northern,” they do not enjoy central heating like other cities in the province – after all, they are located south of the geographical boundary line between north and south, making them genuine southerners.

The Xinyang Maojian tea garden winding through the mountains. Photography