Episode Three

Malipo Tea: Bearing a Long and Flowing Tradition

“Sitting by the clear water, watching dust settle as tea brews. No reason is needed to hold a bowl of tea, sent to those who love it.” The love for tea among the people of Malipo County in Yunnan's Wenshan Prefecture seems innate, regardless of age or gender. It would not be an exaggeration to associate every person in Malipo with tea. The tea itself, along with its crafting techniques and drinking customs, continue to thrive through this subtle yet profound connection with the people.

The Tea culture in Malipo is renowned for its richness. Just as no celebration is complete without alcohol, so too is no gathering complete without tea. Besides the common practice of Steeping tea leaves, the locals still preserve a unique method of tea preparation known as baked tea. This technique maximizes the aroma and essence of the tea, resulting in a rich and strong Brew. Baked tea can be made using clay pots, metal cans, or concave open metal vessels, but clay pots are considered the most ideal.

The pot is first cleaned and dried over a fire. An appropriate amount of dry tea leaves is then placed inside, marking the beginning of a long process. Making a good pot of baked tea requires patience, as one's temperament and skill can often be discerned through the baking process. “The careless will burn the tea, the lazy will produce uneven color, and the impatient will undercook it.” Beyond patience, making baked tea is a technical skill that beginners often struggle with, easily burning or undercooking the tea. Skilled practitioners, however, frequently shake the pot and observe the changing color of the leaves, adjusting their distance from the flame to control the heat.

Once the leaves become crisp and turn a lustrous dark color, boiling water is poured in, and the mixture is simmered for another four to five minutes. A successful pot of baked tea should have a dark amber hue with a hint of yellow, a fragrant aroma without any burnt smell, and a slightly bitter taste that turns sweet. Baked tea should be consumed while hot, as it tends to form sediment when cooled, rendering it undrinkable.

There is also Etiquette involved in serving baked tea. The first cup must be given to the eldest, the most respected, or the honored guest, and it should be presented with both hands. This is the highest form of tea etiquette in Malipo, and the recipient will typically offer a gesture of gratitude. Although baked tea is enjoyed by all ages, there is an unwritten rule that elders are served first, which everyone follows tacitly.

To make good baked tea, one needs quality tea leaves, and the process of crafting the tea is just as meticulous. The traditional method used in Malipo involves pan-frying, rolling, and sun-drying. In simple terms, a suitable iron pan is heated over a stove, and fresh tea leaves are tossed until they soften. They are then gently rolled and left to dry and sort. This method minimizes damage to the leaves and helps retain their original flavor. Much like the technique of baking tea, this traditional method of tea crafting has been passed down through generations intact.

Mengsong tea is a representative of Malipo teas, and the tea-making skills of the Yao people serve as a model for the preservation of traditional tea crafting techniques. The Yao people living in the Qinglongwan Village Group of Mengsong Yao Ethnic Township have been harvesting tea for generations. The area is lush with vegetation and streams. Wherever there are Yao people, there is tea, and Qinglongwan is no exception, with tea plants scattered throughout the mountains. Most of the tea makers here are middle-aged and young adults – which might surprise you, but it is indeed the case. As the industry expands and becomes more promising, many young people who were once tired of wandering have returned to the village to take up the ancestral trade.

“At this point, you need to stir quickly. The temperature shouldn't be too high, or you'll ruin the tea.” “Now, don't stir; let it scorch a bit more.” Under the guidance of their elders, newcomers learn the craft diligently, move by move. For the people of Malipo, making tea isn't entirely unfamiliar due to their lifelong exposure to the process. After a brief period of instruction, newcomers naturally become adept at the task. Of course, becoming a skilled craftsman requires further dedication and effort.

We often speak of nostalgia, but what is it? To the people of Malipo, the vibrant fire, the rich aroma of tea, dewdrops on tea tips, and tea juice staining fingers green, and calling out to your second uncle at dusk to come for tea, these are all forms of nostalgia. Tradition can feel lonely, and our times are somewhat restless, but thankfully, each generation has its custodians. Among the younger generation, accustomed to the bright lights and noise of the city, there are some who stand out. Increasingly, more young people are joining in the protection and preservation of traditions as they rediscover their values, and the same is true in the realm of tea. Looking ahead, this stream of vitality continues to bear the long and flowing tradition of Malipo's “river of tea.”