With the widespread adoption of mechanization, Puer Tea has been produced in large quantities using machines for many years. Only a few remote areas with limited electricity supply or smaller production scales by individual farmers still use traditional handcrafting methods, especially for premium ancient tree teas. As Puer tea gained popularity and traditional tea-making methods like “adhering to ancient techniques” and “stone mold pressing” were promoted, there has been a noticeable increase in such products on the market. Some have asked whether handmade is better than machine-made. What impact do handmade versus machine-made processes have on the quality of Puer tea? Let's explore the pros and cons of both methods and their effects on the tea's quality.

Handmade Withering vs. Machine Withering

Impact on Puer Tea Quality

In traditional Puer Tea processing, various methods of withering were used, including water-soaking, steam, fire, sun-drying, and pan-frying. Over time, water-soaking, steam, fire, and sun-drying were abandoned due to various drawbacks. Pan-frying became the predominant method.

Analysis of Pros and Cons of Handmade Pan-Frying: The quality of handmade pan-frying depends on the skill and focus of the tea master. The control of temperature throughout the process is crucial. Without infrared thermometers, the ideal temperature was determined by the master's experience, including when to add tea leaves and how to adjust the fire. Additionally, the duration of withering is also decided by the master. However, the control over fire intensity and temperature can be subjective, leading to inconsistent results, under-withering, over-withering, or burning.

If the tea master is skilled and the daily production volume is manageable, they can adjust the temperature and duration based on the freshness and dehydration level of the leaves, resulting in optimal withering. In reality, however, it's rare for masters to tailor the process to each batch, and when faced with high volumes, it becomes challenging to do so.

Current issues with handmade withering include excessively high temperatures (up to 300 degrees Celsius) and prolonged durations (over 30 minutes), which can result in excessive drying and loss of active enzymes.

Low-temperature pan-frying without prolonging the process can retain more active enzymes, theoretically beneficial for aging, but long-term effects remain to be seen.

Analysis of Pros and Cons of Machine Withering: Modern technology uses drum withering machines that can regulate speed and temperature accurately. This allows for more scientific and consistent withering based on the quantity, freshness, and dehydration level of the leaves, reducing subjectivity. However, small batches are not feasible with this method, and adjusting temperature and duration based on freshness and dehydration levels may not be as flexible or precise as handmade methods.

Conclusion: Traditional pan-frying using wood fires and iron pans was a product of past limitations. Adopting modern, scientifically advanced machines that offer precise control over temperature and speed is the preferred choice. If choosing handmade withering, the tea master must be competent, and production volumes should be limited to ensure quality.

Handmade Kneading vs. Machine Kneading

Handmade kneading often suffers from insufficient pressure due to the labor intensity involved. The advantage is that the degree of kneading can be adjusted based on the freshness of the leaves, yielding better results compared to machines. Hand-kneaded leaves have a more attractive appearance.

Machine kneading ensures consistent pressure, avoiding the issue of insufficient kneading. However, it cannot adjust the degree of kneading precisely based on Leaf freshness, and the appearance of the leaves is less appealing, requiring additional shaping.

Conclusion: Adequate kneading helps release internal components and activates enzymes, benefiting the transformation and quality of Puer tea. Handmade kneading should ensure sufficient pressure. Machines should focus on shaping for an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

Natural Sun Drying

The benefits of natural sun drying align with natural laws. Enzymes perform optimally between 20°C and 45°C, and the temperature generated by sun drying is conducive to enzyme activity. After sun drying, the moisture content of 9-10% is ideal for enzyme catalysis, promoting positive changes in the tea. However, if the drying area is not properly controlled, foreign objects may contaminate the tea, and in rainy weather, drying can be challenging, potentially leading to spoilage.

Drying in a Specialized Glass Drying Room or Oven

A glass drying room maintains normal sun drying temperatures while protecting against contaminants and rain, making it a good option. Proper ventilation is essential. Oven drying presents challenges in controlling enzyme activity since enzymes become inactive above 60°C and cease functioning above 80°C. The temperature, drying time, and final moisture content (9-10%) all affect enzyme activity, impacting the tea's transformation and quality. Oven drying is not recommended except in rainy seasons, with strict temperature and timing controls.

Conclusion: Sun drying is the preferred method for drying raw tea, ideally in a specialized glass drying room. In rainy weather, oven drying can be used, but the temperature should not exceed 45°C, and the moisture content after drying should be 9-10%.

Drying of Compressed tea

Traditional Process: Sun drying or alternating sun drying and air drying. Sun drying is in line with natural drying methods, and the temperature and moisture content after drying are most conducive to enzyme activity, promoting positive changes and enhancing the quality of Puer tea.

Modern Process: Drying in an oven. If the oven mimics the conditions of sun drying (e.g., 40°C for 12 hours followed by 12 hours of air drying, repeated until the moisture content is 9-10%), the impact on Puer tea is minimal. However, some companies use continuous drying at temperatures above 60°C due to space constraints, reducing enzyme activity and potentially causing the tea to become too dry, affecting its transformation and quality.

Conclusion: Glass drying rooms are ideal for drying compressed tea, with a shade to reduce direct sunlight. If an oven must be used, temperature and moisture content after drying must be carefully controlled.

Compressing Process

Stone or Wood Molds: Stone or wood molds were used before the advent of electrical equipment. When using these molds, cleanliness and hygiene must be considered.

Mechanical Pressing: Using electrical equipment improves efficiency and makes it easy to control the pressure, thus regulating the firmness of the tea cake. The equipment and pressing method are generally hygienic.

Conclusion: Using stone or wood molds for compressing Puer tea was a method of the past when modern equipment was unavailable. There is no specific benefit to Puer tea transformation from using these molds. Mechanical pressing is sufficient.

Originally published in Puer Magazine

February 2025 Issue

Author: Yang Zhongyue | Photos: Zhu Li | Illustrations: Fish Sauce [except where credited]

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