The Wuyi Mountains are located in Chong'an County, in the northwest of Fujian Province. They form the main peak of the Wuyi Mountain range that stretches across the border of Fujian and Jiangxi provinces. The mountains rise over 9,000 feet above sea level and are known as the “Roof of Fujian.” The area around the mountains spans about 120 miles, with 360 peaks and 99 cliffs. Nine meandering streams flow through the region, creating a picturesque landscape that resembles a mountainous country and an imperial paradise. The peaks and cliffs are majestic and awe-inspiring, towering high and low, enveloped in mist and clouds, their beauty is beyond description. The waterways are fast-flowing and deep, serene and clear, with ancient depths that are home to elusive fish and dragons. Historically, many hermits, scholars, travelers, and poets have revered this place, living and traveling here, as recorded in history books. Notable figures like Zhu Xi, a great Song Dynasty Confucian scholar, built his residence here to teach and lecture, attracting a steady stream of literati and scholars, turning it into a land of learning. Other famous figures such as Lu You, a patriotic poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, Sa Du-la, a Mongolian poet of the Yuan Dynasty, and Xu Hongzu, a traveler of the Ming Dynasty, all traveled long distances to visit, enjoying the scenery and staying for extended periods. The beauty of its landscapes can be compared to Yandang in Zhejiang, Mount Lu in Jiangxi, Huangshan in Anhui, and Luofu in Guangdong, and its reputation extends far beyond the borders of Fujian Province.
While the Wuyi Mountains are renowned for their unique beauty, the Wuyi Rock Tea produced there is also a marvel among teas. The Wuyi Mountains are not only remarkable for their natural beauty but also for the extraordinary tea they produce, making the famous mountains and famous tea even more prominent. The origins of Wuyi Rock Tea are difficult to trace historically. Some say, as mentioned in a Song Dynasty poem, “The best tea by the river is cultivated by immortals in Wuyi since ancient times.” Its development into a thriving industry likely began in the Song Dynasty and flourished during the Yuan Dynasty, continuing through the Ming and Qing Dynasties up to the present day. During the Song Dynasty, tea drinking was highly favored throughout the court and common people alike, and the Tea culture was at its peak. At that time, the most famous tea came from Beiyuan in Jianzhou (present-day Beiyuanli in Jian'ou). Later, Wuyi tea gained recognition from officials in the capital, including Cai Junmou, who believed it tasted better than the tea from Beiyuan. As a result, Wuyi tea replaced Beiyuan tea in popularity.
The Wuyi Rock Tea is imbued with the essence of the mountains and rivers, possessing the distinct qualities of rock bones and floral fragrance. It is sweet and fragrant, with a production method that falls between black and Green Tea, eliminating the bitterness of green tea and the astringency of black tea. Its nature is gentle and not overly cold, and it can be stored for a long time without spoiling. The longer it is stored, the clearer its aroma becomes and the purer its taste. In terms of medicinal benefits, it refreshes the mind, invigorates the spirit, alleviates worries, quenches thirst, kills bacteria, cleanses the body, and aids digestion. Regular consumption is considered a health tonic and longevity elixir. For centuries, Wuyi Rock Tea has been renowned both domestically and internationally. In major cities within China, virtually every tea shop advertises Wuyi Rock Tea to attract customers. In Europe, the British even referred to it as “doctor's tea.” To this day, Western scholars of Chinese tea varieties name one category after “Wuyi,” indicating the wide reach and influence of this tea.
The cultivation and production of rock tea were initially started by monks and hermits in the mountains. Later, local residents took up the practice, but it was the tea merchants from Zhangzhou and Quanzhou who truly promoted and expanded the industry. Every spring, when the tea sprouts were just beginning to grow, these merchants would bring capital and travel north along the river to manage the picking and processing of tea. By early autumn, when the tea season ended, they would pack their goods and return downstream, a tradition that continues to this day.
In the heyday of the industry, when tea ships arrived in the spring, local officials from the towns, prefectures, and counties they passed through would vie to welcome them, with some even greeting them with cannon salutes. This luxurious treatment is still fondly recalled by older tea workers. The methods of operation involved significant investment, purchasing land on the rocky mountainsides, setting up factories, clearing thickets, and planting tea bushes. They would choose beautiful cliffs and ravines to cultivate, seeking out secluded and scenic spots, ensuring that the tea and the rocks shared names. Today, if you wander through the Wuyi Mountains, you will find tea bushes planted near every magnificent vista. During the peak period, there were nearly a hundred such tea factories scattered across the thirty-six peaks and ninety-nine cliffs of Wuyi, and although many have fallen into disuse, dozens still remain. Among the most famous are Tianxin, Huiguan, Xiasun, Mantuo, Leishi, Zhukeng, Tianjing, and Jingyun, known as the Eight Famous Cliffs. The tea produced here is highly valued by connoisseurs.
The production of rock tea has a long history, and there are still well-known old tea shops in Zhangzhou and Quanzhou today, such as Jiquan, Qiyuan, Quanyuan, and Jintai. These businesses all have a history spanning over a hundred years, with traditions passed down through generations. Each shop has its own cliffside plantation and factory, carefully selecting and processing tea. For example, Jiquan No. 1 is currently one of the most outstanding in the rock tea industry, both in terms of cultivation and manufacturing. Their plantation is located on Huiguan Cliff, where the natural scenery and tea factory facilities are unrivaled in the Wuyi Mountains.
The cultivation and processing methods of rock tea are unique and scientific. For example, while certain pure strains like Shuixian and Oolong are propagated asexually, the majority of tea plants are grown from seeds. Due to the long history of cultivation, there are many very old tea trees, some even dating back to the Tang and Song dynasties. Since tea plants are perennial crops, with proper care and suitable environmental conditions, they can survive for centuries. Because the tea plants are propagated from seeds, there are countless excellent varieties in the Wuyi Mountains, which could provide valuable resources for breeding research. Each cliff has its unique features, and each tea variety has its distinct characteristics. If these varieties were studied and selectively bred, it could make a significant contribution to the tea industry. Regarding the harvesting and processing techniques, tea leaves are only picked at the right time of year, no more than once. The harvested leaves are sorted using a screening method to separate them by size before withering and processing. Although current practices may be somewhat less refined, echoes of past precision can still be seen. Additionally, different varieties or unique tea plant characteristics are processed separately to avoid mixing. This is why rock tea is categorized as “single-bush specialty” or “distinctive variety.” Furthermore, the processing is done entirely by hand, with particular emphasis on the withering process. Only leaves that exhibit the desired red edges and green centers are considered top-quality. The baking techniques also have special characteristics. However, what stands out most is the cleanliness of rock tea production. In the past, rock tea was described as the saint of teas, implying that it is free from earthly impurities.
The excellence of Wuyi Rock Tea cannot be fully described in just a few words. What is hoped for is how to promote and expand the industry so that it can continue to thrive for generations to come, shining alongside the famous Wuyi Mountains for centuries to come. This is my sincere hope.
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