When modern people talk about Tea ware, they mostly mention Teapots and cups, while the tea tray seems to have become a neglected object. In fact, throughout history, the tea tray has been an important supporting actor in tea ware that cannot be overlooked.
The tea tray goes by many names, such as saucer, holder, bowl tray, and tea cup tray. It is a dish-shaped utensil placed under the tea cup. At the center of the dish is a ring-shaped seat designed to hold the cup. Just like how modern tea enthusiasts lift the tea tray to drink Gaiwan tea, which prevents their hands from being scalded and eliminates concerns about spilling tea and wetting their clothes. In ancient times, the tea tray was also known as the “tea boat” or “tea ship.”
In The Rites of Zhou, Chun Guan, Si Zun Yi, it is written: “The libation vessels Ji Yi and Niao Yi all have boats.” In the Qing dynasty, Gu Zhangsi's Tu Feng Lu also mentions: “In wealthy households, tea cups are used with holders, called tea ships.” Indeed, ancient tea enthusiasts also valued the tea tray. At that time, tea trays were often made of gold, Silver, or fine porcelain. Originally, they were favored by the aristocratic class of tea people. According to historical records such as The Classic of Tea, before the Tang Dynasty, drinking utensils and tableware were mixed together. Since the Tang Dynasty, tea ware gradually became a system, and common tea ware had smaller-diameter bowls. These were known as “tea cups” or “tea bowls.” As the tea cup evolved over time, its shapes and decorations became increasingly diverse. Later, the combination of cup and tray was invented, and this more refined tea ware was referred to as a tea tray due to its form and function.
In May 1957, seven Tang Dynasty tea trays were unearthed outside the Heping Gate in Xi'an. They were made of silver and gilded, with a ring foot and a round bottom. The tray was shaped like a lotus flower, and there were inscriptions on the bottom reading “Left Censorate Residence Tea Warehouse Gilt Tray.” This shows that the tea trays used by the “Emperor” and nobles in the Tang Dynasty were already quite high-end.
Regarding the invention and origin of the tea tray, there is a historical account. Li Kuangyi's Zixia Ji in the Tang Dynasty records that between 780 and 783 AD, the daughter of Xichuan Circuit Governor Cui Ning also enjoyed Drinking Tea. At that time, tea cups were lifted directly to drink from, and freshly brewed tea was very hot to the touch. She came up with an idea and took a plate, placing the tea cup inside. Although this prevented her hand from getting burned, the size of the plate did not match the cup, leading to frequent spills. Cui Ning's daughter was not satisfied and came up with another solution: she melted some wax on the plate and placed the tea cup in it, finally securing it in place. Later, she asked artisans to make a ring of lacquer to replace the wax, which could both secure the cup and allow it to be separated from the tray. From then on, this innovation spread widely, “everyone found it convenient and adopted it.”
In Cheng Dachang's Yan Fan Lu from the Song Dynasty, there is a similar account: “Trays started in the Tang Dynasty and did not exist in previous times. Cui Ning's daughter drank tea and found the cup too hot for her fingers, so she took a plate and melted wax into the shape of the cup's foot, forming a ring in the middle. She placed the cup in the wax, preventing it from tipping over. She then ordered artisans to make it out of lacquer. Cui Ning was pleased with this creation and named it a tray, which then became widespread.” However, modern archaeological excavations have confirmed that tea trays did not originate in the Tang Dynasty but existed prior. Archaeologists believe that tea trays originated in the Jin Dynasty and became popular during the Southern Dynasties, being relatively refined tea ware at the time.
As the custom of drinking tea flourished, tea trays later evolved to hold multiple cups, possessing strong practicality and decorative value, providing tea enthusiasts with a sense of beauty and solemnity. In the Southern Song Dynasty, Wu Zimu's Meng Liang Lu recorded that tea shops in the capital used “porcelain cups and lacquered trays” for sale. After the Ming Dynasty, tea enthusiasts preferred cups with lids, and when tasting tea, they would use one hand to hold the tray and the other to move the lid to stir the floating tea leaves, adding a unique charm to the experience.
