Mabian Yi Autonomous County in Leshan is known as the “Home of Yi Tea in China,” where traditional Mabian tea integrates Chinese Tea culture with ethnic customs.

The distant jingling of horses on the Southern Silk Road and Li Bai's poetic torrents of the clear river flowing through the city are what make up Mabian, a place with a long history. The origin of the county's name has been lost to the annals of history, but there are three theories: first, geographical theory: Mabian is named after its location beside Lake Malu; second, naming theory: during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, the Ma Lake Anbian Hall was established and abbreviated to Mabian; third, policy theory: under the Ming Dynasty, the central government implemented the “Tea and Horse Stabilization of the Southwest” policy, from which Mabian got its name. Today, we will start by discussing “Tea and Horse Stabilization” and delve into the past and present of this Home of Yi Tea.

Historically, the Tea and Horse Stabilization ensured mutual trade and communication. Today, it is a place of Yi tea and unity and prosperity. According to the “Fengshi Wenjian Record,” tea originated in Central China and spread to the border regions. During the Tang Dynasty, there were already spontaneous tea-horse markets among the people. By the Song Dynasty, the government promoted tea-horse trade, exchanging horses for tea. In the early Ming Dynasty, a Tea and Horse Office was set up, and over 5,000 miles of tea-horse routes were opened. By the mid to late Ming Dynasty, large-scale tea cultivation in border regions began, allowing direct exchange and reducing intermediate costs.

Traditional Mabian Tea Production Techniques

The traditional Mabian tea production techniques integrate local wild tea leaves, indigenous tools, and manual skills.

The process involves seven main steps: selecting tea, picking, spreading out to dry, grinding, fermenting, cooking, and selecting the best. Over twenty special techniques are used, making it a unique tea-making skill of the Yi people and one of the most distinctive ethnic handmade tea production techniques in China. The tea leaves are selected from high-quality spring teas of native tea trees in the Mabian mountains. The tea-making tools are everyday items used by locals, such as ancient wooden mortars and stone stoves.

The traditional Mabian tea production techniques infuse the development of Mabian Yi tea with rich cultural heritage and a clear historical context, playing a significant role in the study of Yi culture and history.

Brewing Mabian Yi Tea

The art of brewing Yi tea is also a subject of study. Where does it originate? Lu Yu, known as the Sage of Tea, wrote “The Classic of Tea” in 780 AD, becoming a milestone and turning point in the history of Chinese tea culture. After that, tea diversified. According to Lu Yu's “Classic of Tea,” tea was first made into compressed cakes, sealed with wax to preserve their original flavor, and required roasting, grinding, brewing, and salting. Today, different regions have developed their unique tea cultures based on their own ethnic traditions and dietary habits. For example: Han tea, influenced by Buddhist and Taoist philosophies, emphasizes tranquility and unity of tea and Zen, preserving brewing techniques; Tibetan tea, due to the harsh high-altitude environment, is heavily flavored and salted; Yi tea, rooted in fire pit culture, preserves the tradition of roasting and aromatic flavors; Japanese tea, refined and meticulous, preserves the technique of grinding tea into powder, which is now used in Japanese tea ceremonies. These elements of Tea culture, such as refinement, purity, taste, and aroma, have been passed down from the Tang Dynasty, forming today's splendid tea culture. As for Mabian Yi tea, guided by the Mabian Tea Industry Association and with assistance from the Sichuan Academy of Agricultural Sciences' Tea Research Institute, a series of standards for “Yi Tea in China” have been established and are undergoing review. Yi Yellow, Yi Red, and Yi Black represent youth, adulthood, and old age, respectively. Three cups of Yi tea toast to life. Simplicity is its nature, bitterness is its journey, and fragrance is its gift.