Mengding Ganlu

Introduction: “In music, the only tune I know is Green Water; in tea, the one I recognize is Meng Mountain. Mengding Ganlu is the oldest renowned tea in China and is honored as ‘the old friend among teas' and ‘the pioneer of famous teas.'”

Mengding Ganlu is picked during the spring equinox when the bud leaves just begin to open. It takes 30,000 to 50,000 buds to make a pound of tea. The traditional production method from the Ming dynasty, known as “three stir-fryings and three kneadings,” includes processes such as picking, withering, and fixation.

Origin: The Mengding Mountain area in Mingshan County, Ya'an City, Sichuan Province.

Meng Mountain is located in the Qionglai Mountains of Sichuan, with Mount Emei to its east, Daxiangling to its south, Jiajin Mountain to its west, and the Chengdu Plain to its north. The Qingyi River flows around its base. Standing on the peak, one can look up to see a high and refreshing breeze, and all things appear bleak; looking down, the river winds around, surrounded by mountains. The tea fields, cypress paths, peculiar rocks, and strange flowers are enough to be called scenic attractions. Therefore, it is said that “On the peaks of Meng Mountain, there are beautiful hills, no bad grass grows, but only fine tea.”

Quality Characteristics:

Shape: Curled and tightly formed, covered with downy hairs.

Color: Fresh green and glossy or Silver green with a yellow hue.

Liquid color: Light greenish-yellow, clear and bright.

Taste: Fresh and brisk, rich and sweet with an aroma that is both fragrant and mellow, thick yet soft, smooth and creamy.

Aroma: Rich and fragrant, fresh and delicate.

Leaf base: Fine buds, uniform and neat.

Tea Tasting: Mengding Ganlu is covered in downy hairs; the tea liquid appears slightly cloudy when first brewed, but after a moment of settling, it becomes bright yellow-green. The first infusion has a rich and sweet taste, while the second infusion is fresh and mellow, leaving a lingering fragrance on the lips and teeth.

Tea Anecdotes: Mengding Ganlu originated from the historical “Ordinary Tea” of Meng Mountain, which is the earliest twisted (rolled) green tea in China. It evolved from the Meng Mountain famous teas “Jade Leaf Evergreen” (1112 AD) and “Myriad Spring Silver Leaf” (1120 AD) during the Song Dynasty.

It was named “Mengding Tea” because it is mainly produced at the mountain's peak, and “Ganlu” (sweet dew) due to its fresh, smooth, and sweet taste, like drinking sweet spring water or delicious dew, leaving a lasting fragrance in the mouth after drinking.

Throughout history, Mengding tea has been praised by many tea enthusiasts. A couplet written above the main gate of Meng Mountain best represents this admiration: “Yangzi River water, Meng Mountain tea.”

The Early Spring Tea Before Mingqian Tea — Mengding Ganlu

Borrowing the March water from the mountains, brewing jade shoots into a pot of spring.

According to legend, tea cultivation on Meng Mountain began at the end of the Western Han Dynasty. In the book “Tea Spectrum” by Mao Wenshi from the Five Dynasties period, it is recorded: “Meng Mountain has five peaks, shaped like fingers, named Shangqing, Yvnu, Jingquan, Lingjiao, and Ganlu. The immortal tea is planted on the stone at the center of the mountain, and every year seven sprigs are collected as tribute.”

Due to its fresh, smooth, and sweet taste, Meng Mountain tea was named Ganlu. Mengding Ganlu is the oldest renowned tea in China and is honored as “the old friend among teas” and “the pioneer of famous teas.”

Today, Xiao Ya will take you on a journey to learn about this timeless tea, the story of Mengding Ganlu.

Notable Figures and Tea

Wielding a simple brush, painting a corner of life, offering you a touch of joy.

Author Lin Qingxuan and Mengding Ganlu

The first time I heard the name Lin Qingxuan, I felt it was full of Zen, very much in line with the temperament of tea. After learning more, I discovered that Mr. Lin Qingxuan loved tea very much and once came to Chengdu's Meng Mountain specifically for a Cup of Mengding Ganlu. He has a well-known story about his experience with Meng Mountain tea and Mengding Ganlu.

I detoured to Ya'an, a beautiful city. Asking for directions at a bookstore in Ya'an, I unexpectedly found that the owner and the owner's wife were fans of mine. They were delighted, invited me for tea, and helped me find tea. The next day, I went to Meng Mountain, where the tea museum had just been built, but it felt similar to the one in Mount Qingcheng. The tea I drank at the tea hall on Meng Mountain fell short of my expectations. Disappointed, I eventually wandered to Yongxing Chan Temple. There were many monks, and their Mengding Ganlu was truly worth the trip. Later, I regretted not buying all of the 30 jin (about 15 kg) of Mengding Ganlu produced by Yongxing Chan Temple each year, taking only 2 jin (about 1 kg) down the mountain. I deeply regretted not purchasing all of their tea after descending.

Upon my first taste of Mengding Ganlu and reading Mr. Lin Qingxuan's words, I felt that they were a perfect match. The literary spirit of the writer and the fresh, sweet taste of Mengding Ganlu complemented each other beautifully. The man and the tea shared a similar temperament.

Meng Mountain Tea Garden

Yangzi River water, Meng Mountain tea

Mr. Lin Qingxuan was immediately impressed by Mengding Ganlu due to its rich aroma, fresh and brisk taste, and sweet aftertaste.

For a tea to have such qualities as a sweet aftertaste, salivation, freshness, and throat comfort, there are primarily three reasons: a unique ecological environment, superior tea tree varieties, and excellent manufacturing techniques.

The Mengding Ganlu from Fu Ya Xuan meets these criteria.

Firstly, Meng Mountain in Ya'an is located along the “30th parallel north,” known for producing high-quality teas. This latitude experiences abundant rainfall and lush plant growth, making it ideal for tea cultivation.

Secondly, it is made by experienced craftsmen at Fu Ya Xuan following traditional methods. This is different from tea made by farmers for tourists. Before fixation, the young tea buds undergo moderate withering, allowing the grassy smell to dissipate from the tea buds.

As the aroma of the tea buds develops, more glucose and amino acids are decomposed, resulting in a richer aroma and fresher, purer taste after processing.

Plants and People

The Early Spring Tea Before Mingqian Tea — Mengding Ganlu

What many may not know is that Mengding Ganlu is referred to as the “mother of all teas.”

In early February, after the Spring Festival, tea farmers in Meng Mountain, Ya'an City, start picking these delicate “initial buds.”

The Mengding Ganlu produced here is an even earlier spring tea than West Lake Longjing and Dongting Biluochun. The mild climate and rich ecological environment cause the tea plants to sprout early, producing the tender shoots of the year.