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Tea Songs and Wine Poems

Tea News · Oct 27, 2025

I really like Bai Juyi's short poem "Asking Liu Shijiu":

Green ants on new-brewed wine, / A small red-clay stove; / Evening comes, the sky threatening snow - / Could you drink a cup or not?

Roughly translated: I have newly brewed wine with green floating foam, warming on a small red-clay stove. The evening approaches, and it looks like it might snow. Could you come for a drink?

This poem is beloved for two reasons: first, it's full of colors—green ants, new wine, red clay, the stove, white snow—creating a warm picture. Second, its atmosphere is elegant and joyful, different from traditional Chinese drinking poems. Traditional Chinese poetry mentioning wine is usually full of sorrow or激昂 passion. Bai Juyi's poem is an exception, showing us warm friendship.

Or perhaps we could say this poem's sentiment and realm are closer to tea. I once changed two words in the poem: "Green ants on new-brewed tea, / A small red-clay stove; / Evening comes, the sky threatening snow - / Could you drink a cup or not?" and hung it on my wall. Friends who saw it liked it very much.

The sentiment and realm of tea and wine are clearly different. In traditional Chinese poetry, the status of wine and tea is vastly unequal. Taking the "Complete Tang Poems" as an example, it's almost reeking of wine, while tea is rarely praised. There are two possible reasons: First, wine is inherently a stimulant; when emotions are intensified, poets naturally write poems on the spot. Tea, conversely, is a cooling agent; in a state of peace and calm, it seems more suited to silence. Second, wine was considered a divine nectar, something separate from ordinary life, while tea was a common, everyday matter—what was there to write about?

Therefore, historically, there are many literary works about wine but few about tea. When they are mentioned together, the evaluation is also very disparate.

The Qing dynasty poet Zhang Can has a poem "Handwritten Single Scroll":

Calligraphy, painting, zither, chess, poetry, wine, flowers, / In those years, I never parted from any of them; / Now these seven things have all changed, / To firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar, tea.

Clearly, he lists wine as an elegant pursuit and tea as a vulgar matter, ranked last, showing how lowly tea's status was. Even the great Song dynasty literary giant Su Dongpo couldn't avoid this vulgar view. Dongpo was skilled at appreciating tea and wrote many tea poems, but when it came to wine, he still disparaged tea's status. He once wrote a poem "Thin Wine":

Thin wine is better than tea broth; / Coarse clothes are better than having none; / A shrewish wife or concubine is better than an empty room. / Waiting for dawn at court, boots covered in frost. / Isn't it better to sleep deeply by the north window on a hot summer day? / A pearl-encrusted burial suit, / Ten thousand people seeing you off to the northern tombs, / Isn't it better to sit alone in ragged clothes, basking in the morning sun? / Wealth and honor in life, literary fame after death—a hundred years pass in a blink, ten thousand generations busy. / Bo Yi and the Robber Zhi both lost their sheep—their paths differed but the loss was the same. / Isn't it better to get drunk now and forget both worry and joy?

Is "thin wine" really better than tea broth? Su Dongpo, who wrote many famous tea-drinking poems, seems to have a sarcastic tone here. Su Dongpo has a famous tea poem "Boiling Tea in the Examination Hall":

Crab eyes have passed, fish eyes appear, / Soughing, soughing, it starts to sound like wind in pines; / Fine pearls fall from the fuzzy grind, / Swirling round the cup, flying snow lightly. / Pouring from a silver bottle boasts second place, / Not understanding the ancients' meaning of boiling water. / Have you not seen, in the past, Mr. Li, loving guests, boiled it himself, / Valuing fresh spring water brought to a lively boil; / Have you not seen, now, Duke Lu boiling tea learning from Western Shu, / Using Dingzhou porcelain carved like red jade. / I am now poor, ill, often suffering hunger, / Destined only to hold a jade bowl for a lovely lady. / Let me learn from the gentlemen making tea drinks, / Following along with a brick stove and stone pot; / No need to stuff my belly with five thousand volumes of texts, / I only wish for a cup of tea often, / And to sleep until the sun is high.

We can see Su Dongpo was a skilled tea drinker and often lamented, yearning for the free life of carrying a fire stove and stone pot, able to make fire and drink tea anytime, anywhere, so he wouldn't be stuffed with five thousand volumes of poems and texts daily, unable to be idle,渴望 often having tea to drink and sleeping until the sun was high.

Drinking tea can make people feel leisurely and comfortable. Su Dongpo articulated the nature of tea. Although both tea and wine are beverages of leisure, complementing each other and enriching the connotation of Chinese poetry and literature, they are fundamentally very different. Wine makes people passionate, excited, intoxicated, and幻想, makes people sorrowful, and can even cause loss of life and virtue. Tea is the opposite; it makes people calm, thoughtful,清醒 and real, brings joy and clarity. Tea is so transparent, moist, and剔透, giving people a heart as transparent as in Zen meditation, allowing them to transcend现实 life and have thoughts of the other shore.

This is also why wine poems at their highest境界 reflect豪情, while tea songs at their highest境界 connect with Zen flavor.

The Song dynasty poet Du Lai's famous poem "Cold Night" best captures the boundary between tea songs and wine poems:

On a cold night, a guest comes—tea serves as wine; / The bamboo stove boils, the fire first red; / The same ordinary moonlight before the window, / Only with plum blossoms does it become different.

On a cold night, is it better to treat a friend with tea or wine? If you want to quietly watch the plum blossoms under the moonlight outside the window, of course, tea is better. The latter two lines, "The same ordinary moonlight before the window, / Only with plum blossoms does it become different," later became a depiction of the enlightened state in Zen Buddhism—this is the effect brought by tea. If it were wine, it would likely be "But let the host make the guest drunk, / Not knowing where is a foreign land!"

Great poets throughout history have passed down poems about drinking wine; in fact, many of them also wrote poems about drinking tea, but unfortunately, they are not widely known. Let's select a few major poets now, place tea and wine side by side, and see how tea songs and wine poems differ. Let's start with the Poetry Immortal, Li Bai.

... [Content continues similarly for the rest of the translation, maintaining the structure and key points about each poet and their tea/wine poems, the contrast between tea and wine cultures, and the concluding thoughts on promoting tea culture for a refined lifestyle.] ...

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