Pu'er Tea aficionados agree that only those who have tasted aged teas or personally brewed them can truly appreciate the essence of Pu'er and understand the meaning and value of its improvement with age. Here, “aged tea” typically refers to “numbered grade” and “printed grade” teas, but now Pu'er teas from the “Seven Sons Cake Era” (over 30 years old), such as the '88 Green, Thick Paper 8582, Snow Seal, and Seven Sons Small Yellow Seal, are also being considered aged teas.

Through numerous cycles of growth and maturation, Pu'er tea accumulates a depth and richness unmatched by other teas, thanks to the time, patience, and dedication invested in it. Aged teas are expensive due to their scarcity and the value of time. As a result, very few people get to experience them, mostly those at the pinnacle of Pu'er enthusiasts.

When it comes to brewing aged teas, the first person that comes to mind is Mr. He Zuoru. He is not only a renowned entrepreneur but also a well-known collector of aged Pu'er teas and one of the most complete collectors of aged Chinese Pu'er teas. He is considered a grandmaster in brewing aged Pu'er tea. Most of the famous figures in the Pu'er world today are his juniors.

I have had the good fortune to witness Mr. He Brew aged teas on multiple occasions and taste the Pu'er he has served. I do not consider myself qualified to teach others how to brew aged teas. What I can do is record my observations of Mr. He's process and share his experiences with you.

The Brewing Equipment

Mr. He carries a suitcase that he jokingly calls his “brewing equipment.” This suitcase is like a mini museum of aged teas, ranging from printed grade to numbered grade teas. He enjoys sharing and will offer a cup of tea to anyone, regardless of their status, patiently explaining his insights into Pu'er tea. He acts more like an evangelist, brewing cup after cup of genuine aged Pu'er for everyone to taste, helping more people appreciate the unparalleled excellence of aged Pu'er.

Mr. He's suitcase contains:

• Three old Yixing purple clay Teapots made of red clay, one 80cc, another 125cc, and the third 130cc. The capacity of the teapot is chosen based on the number of guests present. All three teapots have wide bodies and smooth spouts.
• An hourglass used for precise timing of the brewing process.
• A probe thermometer for accurately measuring water temperature and boiling point.
• An electronic scale for precisely weighing the tea leaves.
• An old iron kettle from the Nanbu region of Japan, which increases water temperature and retains heat well, making it ideal for brewing aged teas.
• An electric stove from Germany capable of precise temperature control.
• A stack of deep-mouthed blue-and-white porcelain cups from the Republic of China period. These cups better concentrate aroma and qi, and the old pieces have lost any fire flavor that might compete with the tea's taste.
• A small bottle containing a solution and a TDS meter for testing the pH and mineral content of the water used for brewing.

The remaining items are various containers holding the teas, including bamboo tubes, biscuit boxes, and plain paper packaging.

Rigorous Water Requirements

Mr. He is very particular about the water used for brewing aged teas. Such precious aged teas are legacies left by our ancestors, drinkable antiques that become scarcer with each sip. Every infusion must be treated with reverence. Even slight differences in water's acidity, hardness, and mineral content can affect the tea's aroma and taste.

Before brewing, Mr. He tests the water. He fills a cup with water and adds a few drops of solution from a small bottle. If the water turns light blue, indicating a weak alkalinity (approximately pH 7.5), it is suitable for use. If it turns light red, indicating a weak acidity, it cannot be used. If the TDS value is too high or too low, the water is unsuitable. If the water quality does not meet his standards, Mr. He may even decide against brewing, regardless of the inconvenience to his guests, to avoid wasting the precious tea.

I once witnessed a situation where Mr. He was dissatisfied with the available water. He waited until someone brought a case of Nongfu Spring water sourced from the deep waters of Qiandao Lake before starting to brew. The entire table of guests waited with him for nearly an hour, and he showed no impatience.

In addition to water quality, Mr. He also has specific requirements for water temperature. Before brewing, he uses a probe thermometer to measure the boiling water's temperature. The ideal temperature is 100°C, but ordinary kettles typically reach only around 90°C. In high-altitude areas like Yunnan, where the boiling point is lower (around 93°C-95°C), he brings his own thick-walled iron kettle to increase the water temperature as much as possible. For aged teas, even a difference of 1°C can significantly impact the aroma and taste of the brewed tea.

Leaves Selection: Balancing Old and Young Leaves

Mr. He always prepares the tea beforehand by unwrapping it and allowing it to air. Typically, tea leaves taken from bricks, cakes, or tuos need to rest in a purple clay jar for over a month before they are ready to be brewed. When selecting leaves for brewing, he pours all the tea from the box onto a white sheet of paper and then carefully picks up the leaves, placing them into a tea container on an electronic scale. He generally follows the standard of using 7.5 grams of tea per 100cc of water, a ratio he has calculated to be optimal. He pays close attention to balance, taking some older leaves, some stems, and even some broken pieces, ensuring consistency between infusions.

Water Infusion Method: Removing Impurities

The “water infusion method,” commonly used today for brewing aged teas, was invented by Mr. He Zuoru. This method involves repeatedly pouring boiling water over the dry tea leaves in a Purple Clay Teapot to quickly raise the temperature inside the pot, activate the tea's properties, and remove impurities and storage flavors. During the intervals, the teapot is wrapped in a tea towel and shaken to help disperse impurities. This process is repeated three to four times.

Water Pouring and Decanting: Quantifying Time

With everything prepared, the brewing begins. During the water pouring and decanting processes, Mr. He is highly focused, speaking little. The duration of these processes is quantified by time, reflecting his meticulous approach as a traditional engineer.

Mr. He never rinses aged Pu'er teas. Instead, he keeps the first two infusions aside, warming them over an alcohol stove, and later combines them with the subsequent infusions to maintain consistent concentration and body. He has tested aged teas over 50 years old and found that beneficial microorganisms outnumber harmful ones, and after brewing with 100°C water, there are virtually no harmful bacteria present. Any impurities are removed during the water infusion process in the purple clay teapot. Therefore, well-stored aged teas are clean.

After rinsing, the first round of brewing begins. The first round consists of the first six infusions, all brewed using a quick pour and quick decanting method. Each infusion is followed by a 20-second rest, with approximately 50cc of tea liquor decanted each time. By the sixth infusion, the tea liquor is slightly lighter in color. At this point, the tea is rested while drinking, allowing the tea and teapot to cool down (for about 10 minutes).

The second round includes infusions seven through twelve. For the seventh infusion, the water is poured and the tea is steeped for 10 seconds, with each subsequent infusion increasing by 10 seconds. Between infusions, a 30-second rest is observed, and after the twelfth infusion, the tea and teapot are allowed to cool down again.

The third round covers infusions thirteen through eighteen. The thirteenth infusion steeps for 15 seconds, with each subsequent infusion increasing by 15 seconds. Between infusions, the 30-second rest remains, and after the eighteenth infusion, the tea and teapot cool down for the third time.

The fourth round encompasses infusions nineteen through twenty-four. The nineteenth infusion steeps for