The differences in historical geography and economic-cultural development across China have resulted in distinct regional and ethnic characteristics in tea-drinking customs. These customs have evolved over a long period based on ancient ways of Drinking Tea, reflecting both history and contemporary life.

Whether they are tea stands and pavilions on bustling streets or teahouses tucked away from the noise, they all represent the concentrated essence of local tea-drinking traditions. Below, we will take you through the unique styles of tea houses across the regions.

East – Suzhou Teahouses Emphasize Elegance

“On Dongting Mountain, there is a type of tea that resembles the tea from Jian but is finer and very fragrant, commonly known as ‘Scare to Death.' The best comes from Biluofeng Peak and is named ‘Biluochun.'” The famous Biluochun does not originate from the shores of Dongting Lake in Hunan but from Dongting Mountain in Wuxian County, Suzhou. Drinking tea has always been a way for the people of Suzhou to enjoy a leisurely break.

In the past, Suzhou teahouses were located along streets and rivers, scattered throughout the city. From scholars to cart drivers and peddlers, everyone had their own preferred teahouse, each with its own unique character, never straying into the wrong one. The regular patrons of Suzhou refer to visiting teahouses as “incubating” in them. A group of friends would gather, each with their own teapot, discussing philosophy and laughing together; listening to storytelling or musical performances, the leisurely spirit of the Suzhou people is fully expressed in these moments.

Today, many teahouses in Suzhou are hidden within various gardens, featuring winding corridors, windows, waterside pavilions, and gazebos, bringing back the poetic nature of tea drinking as practiced by the ancients, full of charm. Patrons enjoy a cup of light tea while listening to the sounds of the three-stringed pipa, crisp and clear like water flowing over stones, spending an entire day in comfortable leisure.

West – Chengdu Teahouses Embrace the Bustle of Life

Chengdu is often referred to as a city steeped in tea. The region of Sichuan is one of the birthplaces of Chinese tea, where the custom of drinking tea has been popular since ancient times. There is an old saying in Sichuan: “There is little sunshine above, yet many teahouses below.” Since it's often cloudy in Chengdu, people gather in teahouses to chat. Due to its location in the southwestern basin, naturally isolated, teahouses became places for spreading information among travelers from all directions.

People in Chengdu prefer flower-scented teas and use covered bowls, a tradition from the north. Interestingly, in Chengdu teahouses, you won't see Teapots on the tables; instead, “tea doctors,” waiters equipped with long-spouted copper kettles, pour tea for the patrons. The term “tea doctor” refers to the waiters who work in teahouses, earning this name due to their extensive knowledge and wide-ranging social connections.

Bamboo recliners are another hallmark of Chengdu teahouses. Bamboo grows abundantly in Sichuan, and these chairs can be used for sitting or lying down, making them comfortable even after hours spent in the teahouse. Newspaper sellers, ear cleaners, and shoeshine vendors move about, adding to the scene. Under the shade of large trees or beneath cool pavilions, tables and chairs are casually set up, allowing people to enjoy tea. This is the lifestyle of the “tea-addicted” people of Chengdu.

South – Chaozhou-Shantou Teahouses Emphasize Etiquette

In Guangdong, people often greet each other with “let's have tea when you're free.” The people of Guangdong enjoy drinking tea in the morning, afternoon, and evening. Due to the warm climate in Lingnan, the locals have the habit of going to teahouses early in the morning for “one pot and two dishes,” slowly sipping tea for the whole morning.

The people of the Chaozhou-Shantou region in Guangdong are particularly meticulous about their tea, using exquisite gongfu tea sets and techniques. High-quality teas like Oolong and Tieguanyin are favored. The tea sets themselves are works of art, including a tea kettle, a “Mengchen pot,” and three small cups as thin as paper and resonant as a stone chime, complemented by a tea caddy and water container. The tea-pouring technique is also elaborate, summarized as follows: “pour high and strain low, rinse the lid and scrape off foam, General Guan's tour of the city, General Han's counting of soldiers.” This method results in a tea with a rich amber color and a fragrant, lingering taste.

From washing the cups to brewing and drinking the tea, every step embodies the Confucian spirit of “benevolence leads to auspiciousness.” For the people of Chaozhou-Shantou, drinking gongfu tea is not just about quenching thirst; the intricate skills and procedures involved reflect the natural and artistic enjoyment of life.

North – Beijing Teahouses Emphasize the Buzz

“A pair of slippers on my feet, a bowl of jasmine tea.” While most places emphasize the tranquility and elegance of the tea-drinking environment, Beijing is known for its lively and bustling atmosphere. Although the areas north of the Huai River are not major tea-producing regions, the history of tea drinking dates back a thousand years, with unique customs developed. Northerners are known for their straightforward personalities and favor brewing tea in large pots and drinking from large bowls, with Beijing's big-bowl tea being particularly famous.

In Beijing, people prefer to drink big-bowl tea, especially scented teas. Scented teas, also known as fragrant slices, are made by blending new tea with fresh flowers. The new tea absorbs the floral fragrance, resulting in a rich and robust flavor that is both durable and flavorful. In the past, the reason for drinking jasmine tea was due to the hard and bitter well water. Mixing jasmine with green tea helped to neutralize the bitterness. Over time, this became a distinctive tea-drinking custom in old Beijing.

Modern-day teahouses in Beijing are multifunctional venues. Patrons can come here to enjoy performances of traditional arts, savoring a snack like donkey rolling cake paired with scented tea, unhurried and content, embodying the authentic life of a Beijing teahouse.

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