Wuyi Mountain is one of China's most famous tea producing areas, yielding renowned tea varieties such as Da Hong Pao, Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong, and Jin Jun Mei. The people of Wuyi Mountain drink tea in a very pure manner, with everything focused on the tea itself. They brew tea meticulously, and when tasting it, their minds contain nothing but the tea. It is so pure that they do not eat snacks and even avoid topics unrelated to tea. This purity can be summarized in one word: "fastidiousness". How fastidious are they? Please listen as Old Lü explains in detail.

First, they are fastidious about the quality of water, adhering to the ancient precept: mountain spring water is best, river water is next best, well water is inferior, and tap water simply cannot be used for brewing tea. You can see tea enthusiasts making great efforts to find water in the mountains and carry it home for brewing tea. The act of going deep into the mountains to find and carry water is itself a very leisurely and joyful activity.

Second, the vessel for boiling water: iron kettles, aluminum kettles, stainless steel kettles, tempered glass kettles, clay kettles... different kettles impart different feelings and effects. A kettle made from clay is considered the most suitable. Using metal pots like steel or aluminum for boiling water and brewing tea is considered inferior.

Third, the method of boiling water is even more fastidious. The first choice is a small red clay charcoal stove, which is very stylish. The small stove has a lid and a door; when not in use, covering and closing it makes regulating the heat very convenient. The next choice is the now popular electric kettle. The degree to which the water is boiled is crucial; it should be at the first boil (just as fish-eye bubbles appear), called "live water". Water boiled for too long is called "dead water". After the first boil, the water should be left off the heat for 1-2 seconds before pouring. If done too quickly, it's said the water is too "rushed", and the tea will not taste good.

Fourth, selecting the tea vessel: a lidded bowl (gaiwan) is most commonly used, occasionally a purple clay (Yixing) teapot, and very occasionally a convenience brewer (piao yi bei).

Fifth, begins the brewing. The speed (fast or slow) of pouring the water, the height and thickness of the water stream are all considered. Some prefer to pour from a high position (悬壶高冲), others prefer a gentle, thin stream (细水轻润), pursuing an elegant arc of water to allow the tea's essence to manifest in the flow. There is no superiority or inferiority, each has its own style.

Sixth, how long to steep? This is the most critical part of the entire process. The steeping time is different for each infusion, different for different teas, and even varies based on the feeling of the people drinking the tea at that moment. Sometimes tea drinkers can't help but direct the brewer: "Pour it out quickly, it's been sitting too long (坐杯久了)." Or they might say, "Was it poured out too quickly? The flavor hasn't been released yet."

Seventh, tasting the tea. What kind of cup to use? The学问 (knowledge) here is vast. The selection of tea cups follows a four-character principle: small, shallow, thin, white. Small means it can be finished in one sip; shallow means no water remains at the bottom; white as jade is used to contrast the color of the tea; thin as paper helps to release the aroma. Now, about "sipping" (啜 cuō) tea. What is "sipping" tea? The character啜 has one 'mouth' (口) and four 'again' (又). Interpreting the character, it means a mouthful of tea must be repeatedly "again, again, again, again" in the mouth multiple times before being swallowed, making a loud slurping sound. This is to allow the tea to release more flavor. Although the mouth shape is different, it shares similarities with wine tasting. Beginners should sip slowly with small sips to avoid being choked by doing it too fast or too forcefully. For people in Wuyi Mountain, sipping tea in this way often becomes a subconscious habit. Sometimes, even at banquets when drinking soup, they can't help but "slurp" (啜). You must not blame them for being impolite; it's just that drinking tea has become a habit.

Eighth, discussing the tea. Tasting tea inevitably involves discussing it, talking about the current tea while drinking, discussing its aroma, liquor (水 water here refers to the liquid quality), sweetness aftertaste (回甘), mountain origin, tea tree, and feelings…

Ninth, tea battling (斗茶 dòu chá). People often say "after three rounds of wine," tea has something similar. After drinking for a while, someone might pull a packet of tea from their pocket and say: "Brew this one of mine." Though the words are few, the tea battle begins. Another round of discussing aroma, liquor, sweetness aftertaste, mountain origin, tea tree, and feelings ensues… If the tea is not good, it is immediately eliminated, and another person will take out their "competing product" (斗品) to continue the battle.

Chinese people have a saying about drinking tea: "One person gets spirit (得神), two get enjoyment (得趣), three get flavor (得味), seven or eight is serving tea (施茶)." One person holding a cup and drinking slowly,沉思意远 (lost in thoughtful contemplation) is called getting spirit. During holidays, inviting a few good friends to drink tea and chat is certainly a joy of life. As the common saying goes, "For a congenial friend a thousand toasts are too few" (酒逢知己千杯少); isn't it the same with drinking tea? Old friends together, talking about everything, naturally results in "endless tea to drink and endless words to say." Three or four people drinking tea is best, hence "getting flavor." The most exquisite Oolong tea sets are designed for three or four people. If seven or eight people are together, it's called "serving tea," merely for quenching thirst, not for "discerning flavor" (辨味).

Purple Clay Old Lü: A lifetime of Zen tea, collector of antiques, tea ware, calligraphy and painting, a contemporary renowned inheritor of ancient method hand-made teapots.