Tang Dynasty poet Du Mu praised in his poem "Inscription on Tea Mountain": "The mountain is truly the finest in the southeast, Tea is hailed as the leader among auspicious plants."
I. The Beauty of Tea Names
Zhuangzi said in "Zhuangzi·Free and Easy Wandering": "The name is the guest of reality." Therefore, names are very important. The names of Chinese teas can generally be divided into five categories.
The first category is place names plus the botanical name of the tea plant. From such tea names, we can immediately understand the famous variety and origin of the tea: such as West Lake Longjing, Wuyi Rougui, Northern Fujian Shui Xian, Anxi Tieguanyin, Yongchun Buddha's Hand, etc.
The second category is place names plus the shape characteristics of the tea leaves: such as Lu'an Guapian, Pingshui Pearl Tea, Junshan Yinzhen, Guzhang Maojian, etc.
The third category is place names plus imaginative names: such as Lushan Yunwu, Jingting Green Snow, Shucheng Orchid, Enshi Yulu, Rizhu Xueya, Nanjing Yuhua, Guzhu Purple Bamboo Shoot, etc.
The fourth category has wonderful and moving legends or allusions: such as Biluochun, Wenjun Tender Green, Big Red Robe, Iron Arhat, Water Golden Turtle, White Cockscomb, Green Peony, etc.
All others can be classified into the fifth category. Some of these tea names have strong religious colors, such as Putuo Buddha Tea, Golden Buddha, Buddha's Hand, etc.; some are named after auspicious objects, such as Taiping Houkui, Silver Monkey, etc.; some reflect the season of tea picking, such as Guyu Chun, Buzhichun, etc. In short, good tea names can evoke beautiful associations for tea drinkers.
Appreciating the beauty of tea names is essentially appreciating the beauty of traditional Chinese culture. From it, one can not only feel the tea culture but also see the artistic depth of Chinese tea masters.
II. The Beauty of Tea Shapes
Chinese teas are divided into green tea, black tea, oolong tea (blue tea), yellow tea, white tea, dark tea, reprocessed tea, etc., each with its own unique appearance.
Green tea, black tea, yellow tea, white tea, etc., mostly belong to the bud tea category, generally refined from tender tea buds. Taking green tea as an example, it can be subdivided into flat and straight flat-shaped tea, thin, tight, round, and straight needle-shaped tea, tightly curled spiral-shaped tea, curved and beautiful eyebrow-shaped tea, bud-strewn orchid-shaped tea, single flat bud sparrow-tongue-shaped tea, round pearl-shaped tea, slightly curled flake-shaped tea, thin, tight, and curved twisted-shaped tea, and curled ring-shaped tea, etc.
Oolong tea (blue tea) belongs to leaf tea. When plucking, generally one bud with two or three leaves after the emergence of a dormant bud is picked, so the finished tea appears "coarse and large-leaved." However, in the eyes of tea masters, oolong tea also has its own beauty. For example, for Anxi "Tieguanyin," there is the saying "green calyx, green belly, dragonfly head," and "beautiful as Guanyin, heavy as iron." For Wuyi Rock Tea, there is the beautiful name "green leaves with red border."
Regarding the external beauty of tea leaves, professional evaluators use terms like显毫 (hairy), 匀齐 (even and neat), 细嫩 (fine and tender), 紧秀 (tight and elegant), 紧结 (tightly rolled), 浑圆 (perfectly round), 圆结 (round and tight), 挺秀 (straight and elegant), etc. Literati tea masters are even more eloquent. Song Dynasty Prime Minister Yan Shu described the beautiful color of tea as "new tea from Kuaiji Mountain is as green as smoke." Su Dongpo described the shape beauty of the dragon-phoenix cake tea of his time as "a small round moon from heaven." Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong described tea buds as "heart-moistening lotuses" and said, "the eye imagines the green buds, the nose imagines the fragrance," showing this tea-loving emperor's aesthetic imagination.
Wuyi Mountain is a kingdom of famous tea varieties. Records from the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty (1851-1861) alone document over 830 famous teas. The tea masters of Wuyi Mountain love tea deeply. Based on the appearance, shape, and color of the tea leaves, they have given Wuyi Rock Tea many vivid and imaginative names. Such as: "White Rue Xiang, Eastern Fence Chrysanthemum, Peacock Tail, Plain Heart Orchid, Golden Lilac, Golden Guanyin, Drunken Xishi, Green Peony, Plum in Vase, Golden Butterfly, Buddha's Hand Lotus, Pearl Ball, Old Man's Eyebrow, Golden Melon Seed, Embroidered Needle, Rouge Rice, Jade Beauty, Golden Key, Orchid in Rock, Welcoming Spring Willow," etc.
III. The Beauty of Tea Color
The color of tea leaves gives a sense of quality beauty. The beauty of tea color includes the color of the dry tea, the color of the brewed leaves, and the color of the tea soup. In tea art, the main focus is appreciating the beauty of the tea soup's color. Different tea categories should have different standard soup colors. Commonly used terms in tea evaluation include "clear," meaning the tea soup is clean, transparent, and lustrous. "Bright and Vivid" means the soup color is bright and lively. "Distinct" means the soup color is bright and slightly lustrous. "Luminous" means the tea soup is clean and transparent. "Creaming Down" refers to the milky turbidity that appears after the tea soup cools. "Turbid" means there are many suspended particles in the tea soup, transparency is poor, which is a sign of inferior tea.
For specific colors, professional evaluation terms include tender green, yellow-green, light yellow, deep yellow, orange-yellow, yellow-bright, golden-yellow, red-brilliant, red-bright, red-luminous, light red, deep red, brownish-red, dark red, blackish-brown, brownish-brown, reddish-brown, ginger-yellow, etc.
To appreciate the color of tea soup, it is best to use a plain white porcelain cup or a crystal-clear glass cup. Under the refraction of light, the bottom, middle, and surface of the tea soup in the cup will幻出 (create illusions of) three different beautiful halos of color, which is very magical and worth admiring. Tea masters compare the enchanting color of tea soup to "flowing clouds and mist," the light-colored tea soup to "jade milk," and describe the unpredictably changing colors of tea soup as "mist." For example, Tang Dynasty poet Li Ying wrote: "The golden cake is patted into shape with rain and dew, Jade dust is brewed, shining through mist and clouds." Emperor Qianlong wrote: "Bamboo tripod tried briefly to brew jade milk." Xu Yin wrote in his poem "Minister Shangshu Bestows Wax-Face Tea": "Ground with gold槽 and沉香粉末, The ice bowl lightly holds emerald strands of mist."
IV. The Beauty of Tea Aroma
Some tea aromas are sweet and rich, some are quiet and elegant, some are high and lasting, some are fresh and penetrating. According to professional tea evaluation terminology, just the nature of tea aroma includes清香 (fresh fragrance), 高香 (high aroma), 浓香 (strong fragrance), 幽香 (subtle fragrance), 纯香 (pure fragrance), 毫香 (tip aroma), 嫩香 (tender aroma), 甜香 (sweet aroma), 火香 (fired aroma), 陈香 (aged aroma), etc. Classified by aroma type, it can be floral and fruity, or subdivided into honey peach, chestnut, papaya, orchid, osmanthus, etc. Described by its expression, it can be rich and mellow, high and brisk, lasting, strong, intense, pure, clean and harmonious, mild, etc.
Tang Dynasty poet Li Deyu described the tea aroma as: "Pine flowers float in the cauldron, Orchid air lightly enters the cup." Wen Tingyun wrote: "The subtle fragrance lingers on the teeth with lasting taste, Even more, I feel the crane's heart reaches the distant冥." In their writing, the "orchid air" and "subtle fragrance" of tea make one feel ethereal. Song Dynasty's Su Dongpo wrote: "Auspicious grass from the fairy mountain moistens passing clouds, Washed all over the fragrant flesh, powder not yet even." In Su Dongpo's writing, the tea fragrance penetrates one's bones; tea itself is a beauty whose whole body exudes fragrance. Ancient literati particularly loved using the fragrance of orchids to比喻 (metaphorically describe) the aroma of tea, because the fragrance of orchids is universally recognized as the "king of fragrances." Wang Yucheng praised the tea aroma, saying: "The fragrance assails the orchid's essential energy." Fan Zhongyan praised the tea aroma, saying: "The aroma of tea contest surpasses orchids and angelica." Li Dezao praised the tea aroma, saying: "Stirring the orchid paste, fragrance fills the four seats." Gao Shiqi praised Wuyi tea aroma, saying: "Its fragrance steals the freshness of roses and morning dew," etc.
For the appreciation of tea aroma, generally at least "three sniffs" are needed. First, smell the aroma of the dry tea. Second, smell the inherent aroma of the tea fully revealed after brewing. Third, smell the persistence of the tea aroma. There are also three methods for smelling the aroma: first, smell the fragrance from the steam rising; second, smell the lingering fragrance on the lid; third, use a fragrance appreciation cup to slowly and carefully smell the fragrance lingering at the bottom. One major characteristic of tea aroma is that it changes with temperature. According to the book "Tea Drinking and Health" edited by researcher Luo Shaojun: "About 700 aroma compounds have been discovered in tea leaves, and the aroma components and their content vary among different types of tea." Some of these substances volatilize only at high temperatures, some volatilize at lower temperatures. Therefore, to fully experience the beauty of tea aroma, one must smell it both hot, warm, and cold.
V. The Beauty of Tea Taste
Tea has a hundred flavors, among which the main ones are "bitterness, astringency, sweetness, freshness, and liveliness."
Bitterness refers to the entry of tea soup into the mouth, where the tongue root senses an unpleasant taste similar to quinine; Astringency refers to an unpleasant numbing sensation on the tongue when the tea soup enters the mouth; Sweetness refers to the sweet and pleasant aftertaste of the tea soup; Freshness refers to the refreshing and agreeable taste of the tea soup; Liveliness refers to the psychological feeling of comfort, wonderfulness, and vitality when tasting tea.
Based on this, evaluators have praises for the taste of tea such as fresh and brisk, strong and intense, rich and full, rich and mellow, mellow and brisk, fresh and mellow, mellow and full-bodied, sweet aftertaste, pure and correct, etc. Appreciating the natural taste of tea mainly relies on the tongue, because taste buds are unevenly distributed on various parts of the tongue. Generally, the tip of the tongue is sensitive to saltiness, the surface of the tongue is sensitive to sweetness, the sides of the tongue are sensitive to sourness and astringency, and the root of the tongue is sensitive to bitterness. Therefore, when tasting tea, one should take small sips and savor carefully, letting the tea soup flow slowly in the oral cavity, allowing it to fully contact the taste buds on all parts of the tongue, in order to make a fine and accurate judgment of the tea's taste.
The ancients valued most the "flavor beyond flavor" of tea. Different people, different social statuses, different cultural backgrounds, different environments, and moods can taste different "flavors" from tea. "As I grow older, the flavors of the world become thin, What I still love undiminished is only drinking tea." The literary master Ouyang Xiu, having experienced the vicissitudes of life, tasted the bitter flavor of fickle human relationships and the harshness of the world from tea; "Mengding Dew Buds have a delicious spring flavor, By the lakeside moon pavilion, chanting clear at night." The successful official Wen Yanbo tasted the flavor of spring from tea; "Majestic and lovable, not to be treated lightly, Bones clear, flesh smooth, harmonious and upright. Snowflakes and rain feet are not worth mentioning, Only after sipping does one know the true eternal taste." The heroic and open-minded Su Dongpo tasted the flavor of a gentleman from tea; "The young maid with double buns, Makes that person appear even more pure and beautiful. Before drinking, one must first taste. Added is the flavor of cherries." The dashing Ming Dynasty literary leader Wang Shizhen tasted the "cherry flavor" from the tea soup tasted by a beauty; "A ridge divides west and east, Flowing springs and mountain streams taste equally sweet." The Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong, who ruled the country for 60 years during its prosperous age, believed that throughout his land, tea brewed with springs from various places tasted equally sweet. He tasted the flavor of "all under heaven belongs to the king" and great unity from tea.
Tea is like life, also having a hundred flavors. Su Dongpo personified tea, calling it Mr. Ye Jia and writing "The Biography of Ye Jia." In "The Biography of Ye Jia," he借用 (borrows) the emperor's words to say: "Ye Jia is truly a pure and upright scholar, his spirit ethereal as floating clouds." "When I first saw Jia, I did not particularly like him, but after savoring him for a long time, I find him exceptionally lovable." Only by loving tea can one become a refined tea master. Tea is "majestic and lovable, not to be treated lightly, flesh clear and bones smooth, harmonious and upright."