Yunnan is the legendary birthplace of world tea. Its relatively primitive ecological environment has preserved ancient large-leaf tea tree resources in their original form. Tea tasting is an Eastern art of living, guiding people back to a state of simple, tranquil mindfulness. Drinking ancient tree tea (big tree tea) is to savor the flavor of time, experiencing the aroma's evolution from fresh fragrance to aged aroma, the liquor's color change from yellow-green to wine-red, and the taste's transformation from bitterness and astringency to sweetness and mellowness—reflecting the three realms of life. The six key elements for appreciating ancient tree tea are: variety, soil, climate, tea garden ecology, tree age, and processing technique. To best appreciate ancient tree tea, it is ideal to use 100% raw material from the same ancient tea mountain. Such pure material allows one to taste the high-fidelity, authentic flavor, often referred to in the ancient tree tea world as the 'mountain charm and aged aroma.'
Pu-erh tea is hailed as a 'drinkable antique,' and its unique quality of improving with age is widely recognized. The quality of Pu-erh tea is closely related to its main chemical components such as tea polyphenols, amino acids, and soluble sugars. The storage process of Pu-erh tea is essentially a slow oxidation of these chemical substances within the leaves. After a certain period of storage, the liquor color of raw Pu-erh gradually transitions from its original yellow-green or orange-yellow to the deep red and bright clarity of ripe Pu-erh, while the taste develops a mellow and smooth sensation. As tea polyphenols oxidize, esterified catechins decrease, and soluble sugars increase. Astringency reduces, bitterness and astringency fade, sweetness enhances, presenting a unique aged fragrance.
The age of an ancient tea tree is crucial, as it condenses the vicissitudes of time. Generally, the older the ancient tree tea, the more harmonious its basic flavors of bitterness, astringency, freshness, sweetness, and sourness become. The content of water-soluble pectin and resins becomes richer, leading to higher viscosity and smoothness of the tea soup. Bitterness and astringency from ancient tree tea linger briefly in the mouth, giving way to increasing sweetness. Due to abundant water-soluble pectin, the fresh sweetness and the sweet aroma reminiscent of boiled tender corn formed by pectin persist through each infusion. Therefore, even when the tea soup becomes nearly flavorless, ancient tree tea retains a hint of subtle sweetness.
Generally speaking, the transformation of Pu-erh tea goes through the following seven stages:
New Tea Period (1-3 years): Tea liquor is yellow-green or yellow. The aroma carries a prominent fresh, grassy note with a sweet fragrance. Taste is relatively bitter and astringent. Dry tea is dark green. After brewing, the infused leaves are yellow-green. Experienced tea drinkers can distinguish the tea mountain region, approximate tree age, and appreciate the robust mountain charm.
Early Transformation Period (3-10 years): Tea liquor is yellow-red. The fresh, grassy note in the aroma weakens, and a honeyed sweetness becomes noticeable. Taste is less bitter and astringent. Dry tea is black-green. After brewing, the infused leaves are yellow. Experienced tea drinkers can distinguish the tea mountain region, approximate tree age, and appreciate the robust mountain charm.
Mid Transformation Period (10-20 years): Tea liquor is red. The aroma no longer has a fresh, grassy note; honeyed sweetness blends with aged fragrance. Taste is almost devoid of bitterness and astringency, which dissipate quickly upon sipping. The tea soup is thick, somewhat like rice soup. Dry tea is black and glossy. After brewing, the infused leaves are yellow with brownish tones. Experts can distinguish the tea mountain region, approximate tree age, and appreciate the 'melting' sensation upon entry.
Late Transformation Period (20-40 years): Tea liquor is deep red. The aroma is rich with camphor fragrance. Taste has no bitterness or astringency, melting upon entry. The soup is thick like rice soup. Dry tea is black-brown and glossy. After brewing, the infused leaves are light brown. Distinguishing the tea mountain region becomes difficult. The melting sensation upon entry is more pronounced.
Aged Tea Period (40-60 years): Tea liquor is wine-red. The aroma blends camphor fragrance with medicinal notes. Taste has no bitterness or astringency, melting upon entry. The soup is thick like rice soup. Dry tea is black-brown. After brewing, the infused leaves are brownish-red. Distinguishing the tea mountain region is very difficult. The melting sensation upon entry is highly pleasurable.
Old Tea Period (60-100 years): Tea liquor is bright wine-red. The aroma is richly medicinal. Taste has no bitterness or astringency, melting instantly upon entry. The soup is thick like rice soup. Dry tea is black-brown. After brewing, the infused leaves are brown. Distinguishing the tea mountain region is challenging. It melts instantly upon entry, with a serene aged fragrance; the沧桑 (vicissitudes) of time condense into an 'old charm.'
Ancient Tea Period (Over 100 years): Tea liquor is bright, sparkling wine-red and crystal clear. The aroma is richly medicinal. It melts instantly upon entry. The soup is thick like rice soup. Dry tea is black-brown. After brewing, the infused leaves are brown. Distinguishing the tea mountain region is difficult. An 'ancient charm' overflows, lingering on the lips and teeth.
The above transformation periods for ancient tree tea are merely speculative conjecture. After all, the true recognition and understanding of authentic Pu-erh ancient tree tea has only been for a few short years. Therefore, the above must still withstand the test of time.