
What are the aromas of tea? This depends on the classification principle: based on the source of aroma, there are mainly varietal aroma, processing aroma, and storage aroma.
Varietal Aroma
Refers to the most prominent or characteristic aroma exhibited by a single tea variety under complete processing conditions, such as the various aroma types of Phoenix Dan Cong, the cinnamon aroma of Wuyi Rougui, etc.
Processing Aroma
Refers to the aroma produced in tea through certain processing techniques, which can be further divided into primary aroma and added aroma. These aromas are related to variety, terroir, weather, etc., but are not decisive factors. Primary aroma results from steps in the processing, such as fermentation, shaking, or fixation, which cause changes in the tea leaves' original aromatic compounds, leading to new aromas. Examples include the roasted bean shell aroma of flat pan-fired green teas, the longan aroma of Lapsang Souchong, and the fresh, floral aroma of various Oolong teas. Added aroma, on the other hand, is infused into the tea through processing methods, such as the roasted charcoal aroma in rock tea (while caramel aroma belongs to primary aroma), the smoky flavor in Lapsang Souchong, and the scented aromas in various flower-scented teas or the aromas in flavored teas.
Storage Aroma
Refers to the aroma developed or acquired by finished tea due to storage conditions, also divided into primary and added. The aged aroma in old tea is mostly primary; the series of aromas produced in raw Pu-erh tea due to post-fermentation also belong to primary storage aroma. As for the warehouse odor in some wet-stored Pu-erh and other odors generated from poor storage, these are added storage aromas.
Understanding the source of aroma is directly related to tea enthusiasts' ability to identify tea varieties and quality. For example, if a single-variety tea that should exhibit a distinct varietal aroma lacks it, it's often due to improper processing or even incorrect identification of the variety itself. This principle applies to rock tea, Tieguanyin, and Phoenix Dan Cong. It's easy to confuse that varietal aroma and processing aroma can appear simultaneously, such as the complex aromas found in rock tea. In fact, many teas are made from mixed cultivars or introduced varieties. Taking Xinyang Maojian as an example, it can be made from tea plant varieties like Fuding Da Bai, Longjing 43, Zhenong breeding series, Yingshuang, etc. However, due to the processing techniques, the final tea products all present very similar processing aromas, though the quality of these aroma expressions varies.